BELGUIM, DRIFTWOOD
AND LOTS OF PERMAGRINS...
ROBBERY
Earlier this week I saw a robbery in the train station - minutes before I was to board. Scared me to death and mostly just disappointed me that people (who robe) think they’re entitled to said item… so they take it. The clerk, a very tall skinny young guy, yelled out for him to stop and then promptly jumped the counter to chase after the robber - who was triple his size. Leaving the rest of us customers at our own devices. His instincts sunk in and off he went. None of us moved. We just stared. He trusted all of us not to take. To hold space as he made this wrong situation, right. My hero! After all doesn’t life go something like this: You pay - you get to take it. You take it - you will have to pay!
And now, later in the week, I am experiencing a robbery of my own. Hold please, as I crawl nice and high onto my soapbox.
Ok, here goes… my apartment agency, who happens to be quite positively the absolute, no question about it, how do they even survive not knowing up from down, WORST is requiring me to pay for an additional week since my official termination letter (a must in France to get out of a lease) arrived on March 7th. Seven days into the new month.
Ok .. ok .. I can 100% get behind this. And I am a law abiding citizen - so I will do what I am required to do. Alas, the apartment that they are requiring me to pay more for is the SAME apartment that ummmm did NOT have heat or a working toilet - an essential for a home - the first full week of my stay here. The first full week that I, as a lawful citizen, had already committed to pay. So did. I should have withheld a week of rent during THAT month - as now that I have paid it, it’s as though I “forgave” the impossible situation and am now being charged by their law to pay more. When by the law of the tenant - you know? - the one where you PAY for a home and you RECEIVE it in great condition? That lawful bind between a tenant and a landlord? That one? That one is obsolete at this moment. C’est la vie!
I know it’s not right .. all the things.. And yet I just want to stay in my excited vibration about what is to come for Simon and my place!! Because in the grand scheme of life - what’s one unjust in a flow of happiness?
BRUSSELS
I left for the 8am train from my apartment at 6:45 on Friday morning. Too excited not to arrive early! I was Brussels bound and ready to hit the ground running (almost literally) when I arrived in Belgium. Only a short 1.5hr ride away (and direct no less) I was walking into my hotel at 9:45am.
It was the coziest, sweetest, simplest place. They took my bag, offered me a coffee, a map, and of course, a chocolate! I accepted all and began plotting what road I would roam first.
In the course of 7ish hours that day - I had walked a complete 16miles. That’s more than a half marathon! (Which, let’s see, eh?! But I am ready to start training again for this. Amanda - my friend who visited a few weeks ago, told me that she is always half-marathon ready. That she can run one at any moment. Me too! In my dreams, I thought! But I will. Starting… eh??!... tomorrow.)
MY SAINT MARY
While visiting Brussels I met a slew of saints… all named Mary/Marie.
Mary at the reception desk of Made in Louise taking her time with me to speak French, helping me to my room, and offering me help in navigating the city. Later, after I made my way through Parc de Cinquantenaire, down to Parc de Bruxelles and the gorgeous Palais, strolled to the Sablon area - where I couldn’t take my eyes off of the sculptures in Square du Petit Sablon.. the MOST elegant park in my opinion, through to the Église notre-Dame des Victoires au Sablon, past the L’Ami de Claire Fontaine shop (that closed sooner than normal on this day … sigh!!! I missed it and therefore didn’t get to purchase anything (I wanted it all)), landing finally at Chez Richard. Where would you guess it? My waitress was Marie. (Different spelling, but a saint nonetheless. So kind!)
It DOESN’T STOP THERE. After walking to see the National Basilica of the Sacred Heart (honestly, this area scared me. I didn’t feel good here. Felt cold and intimidating. I don't know how else to explain it. It’s huge and yet there was no obvious opening for the church. It felt very scientology if you know what I mean. Wasn’t for moi.) - I stopped off to have a glass of funky organic orange wine at Nightshop - where my waiter wasn’t Marie but a saint all the same. So nice and let me taste all the wines I wanted! Leaving, I was a little loose .. feeling good.. Ready to relax.. Hunker down with a beautiful spread in my hotel and call Simon. And yet, since L’Ami de Claire Fontaine was closed, leaving me devastated and ummmmm hungry (after my, at this point, 15 miles walked). I happened upon Saint Octave Cheese & Charcuterie en route back to my hotel and brace yourself. NO JOKE. Who was my saint behind the counter? You guessed it… Mary! She was the KINDEST. She let me speak in French. She encouraged me as I was testing out my newest learned phrase “puis-je goûter ça?” and wanted to taste it all!
She pointed out all of the local only cheeses and taught me what the difference was between them. I got them all! She was one of those kind of people who can sell snow to eskimos - you know the type?! She snuck in a small party favor - a slice of membrillo (quince paste) and as people started to pour in to her shop .. she gave me directions to the best Boulengier in town. AND IT WAS! I arrived in the nick of time to buy their final mille-feuille in the case. Three people in front of me all bought one - so I felt I was obliged to do the same! I went in for bread but came out with both. THE best thing I had eaten. And the ambiance? I mean… someone tell me… did I teleport back to Clinton Hill?! Clean-Brooklyn-no-frill kind of place. I think I did! J’adore.
NEXT STOP: FRITES + CHOCOLATES
After I roamed around the flea market for HOURS on Saturday morning (could have stayed all the livelong day! But I only had 10 euro cash in my pocket - without my bankcard to get more - so I was limited) and found the most precious bébé vase, Elise picked me up for our 2hour drive to Bruges! Finally together and all the time in the world to catch up.
We arrived at The Notary, drank the yummiest tea, spoke with the prettiest receptionist, unloaded our things, took a tour of the beautiful property (with a swimmable pound - fish, frogs, and all!), and set out to soak in the S U N. Perfect day!
We ate frites at Casa Patata, we bought chocolates from Crevin, we ate dinner at Brasserie Maria van Bourgondië, and we had beers at 2Be Beer.
The next morning, we chose to have the “experience breakfast” offered at our hotel. A four course breakfast - nothing shy of a FEAST! We started with an apple, pear and orage smoothie (was more like juice and so delicious), followed by a yogurt parfait, a poached egg over smoked salmon dressed in hollandaise sauce, itty bitty shrimp in a vinaigrette with avocado cream, pain au chocolate, cappuccino on cappuccino on cappuccino, and then dessert - a fruity tart spread with a Belgium chocolate in the center. You could have rolled me out of there!
We saw it all that day! Including a new place to taste frites at FritBar and beers (even though I stayed with the same, Brugse Zot. Local and perfect!). We walked through the grounds at the nunnery and spotted the cutest house with my name on it! Literally! “Annie”
We finished our day at Réliva - another incredible food experience to the tune of four courses. It was unbelievably delicious. To wet the pallet we had a chilled green gazpacho - like nothing we had ever tasted before. Special, vibrant, and refreshing. Lobster, mussels, decadent goodness all around - and the star of the show?! Lamb! It was magic. We went in at 6pm. I know!! That’s practically lunch for any normal European. But we were to be out of the hotel by 7:30 the next morning - so we figured we would make an early night and tuck in. ha! Joke was on us. We still didn’t leave the restuatuant until 9:30. It was the full experience - down to letting us “take our time.”
The next morning began with stress.. With a capital S T R E S S. The night before our google maps informed us that it would take only one hour and fifteen minutes door to door from Bruges to the airport in Brussels. This morning?! It was saying two hours and thirty minutes. Sweet Elise was panicked. As she should be! If she missed her first flight - she missed her connection - she would get stranded - she would miss her brother’s Charleston visit (the reason she was leaving on this day) - etc etc.
I came down the stairs to find Elise sitting at reception. “Have they come to see you yet?” I asked. She said no and looked defeated. I walked into the kitchen. (More like a communal house/area.) I spoke with the sweetest lady who was in the midst of preparing our early breakfast and asked if she could assist us in checking out. She simply said “I don’t know how. No.” Panic for moi now sunk in too. Yet.. Within two minutes - not even - the manager came to work. She was greeted by me … a guest.. In her staff’s kitchen.. looking panicked. Ha! Yet with the biggest smile. “I’m so thankful you’re here. Will you please go attend to my friend and her need for an earlier car? I can get us coffees made.”
She was so sweet, in shock, and like … ummmmm absolutely not … am I letting you near our 37 button cappuccino machine. Her eyes read… You can wait as I attend yo your friend! So I did.
She was as kind as she could be. She brought over a card to Elise. Like a white plastic credit card looking card. “What is that?” I explained to her. “No. We dont’ need a card. We need a CAR.” Poor thing. Bruges seems very relaxed so this was probably the first time she had ever walked into work so early with demands. I then asked, as she escorted us to the breakfast room to take our coffees. “May I buy one of the candles while we’re waiting for our car?” She reached for the candle on our breakfast table - you know the ones that are white, tall, skinny? The kind of candles that line every fine dining restaurant? Oui! She offered me that kind of candle. Again, sweet thing. She was in shock and trying to calm us down as we were panicked about the timing of the drive and the flight. So she wasn’t thinking. I said “thank you so much! But would you like a sip of my coffee to WAKE UP!?” (rest assured. I did not say that. She was precious. Some of us just need an extra hit of caffeine before we can properly function - she was one of these people. I think. I got my correct candle. It smells divine!)
We finally got into our car and were off. The roads were slick. Our driver would have put Dale Earnhardt to shame as he dodged cars and swerved through traffic. There was one point that I glanced over to Eise - gave her a side what the hell look and buckled up for safety! He was able to calm her down. Elise jokenly said. “Carry-on only! Always!” I’m the same. Even when I popped over for the three months this past summer - I only brought a carry on. You NEVER know when something like this will happen and you just need to be able to walk onto the plane - no fuss. No checked baggage. Just on time.
I left Elise at 9:37. Bought a train ticket only a few minutes later. And boarded the 9:42 train into Brussels downtown. I was en route to have lunch at Au Vieux Saint Martin with Margot! Simon’s dear friend who lives there. The second I saw her we started to laugh. It was so nice to laugh. It was one of the lightest lunches I have ever had. We talked about Simon and all their shenanigans when they knew one another better in their younger years. We talked about her life now in Brussels with a ton of stroller talk with mommies and hopeful new interior projects coming her way. We my move in with Simon. We talked about vacations, about love stories.. And laughed. We laughed a lot! Her laughter and smile is contagious! The lunch could have easily tuned into dinner and then nightcaps as we gabbed. We were falling in love!! Yet… I looked down at my watch. “Oh my god! My train leaves in 45 minutes!” (If I’m anything. I’m early. Always! So this set me into panic). Her response? “Oh good!” Looking over at the waiter. “We’ll have our final glass please.” With her ease - I decided to relax too. Take my final glass of wine that was definitely going to make me chilllllll on the train ride back (and watching the robbery that was to come) and enjoy my final minutes with a new friend.
When it was time to leave we asked a fellow diner to take our photo. Turns out! They knew one another. Margot thought he looked familiar, so asked if he was the father of one of her friends. He said YES… and an eruption of laughter was had. Smallest world!
I got to see Simon upon my return. I brought him waffles - his only request when I went to Belgium, of course. Yet as I was washing the dishes after dinner it occurred to me. I got the wrong ones! My American leggo my eggo waffle image had been what I was thinking when I bought the fluffy ones. Only… he had wanted the thin waffle cookies. When I told him what I just realized - He smiled. Because he knew they were wrong - but wasn’t going to say anything. He was going to eat them and be happy. Sweetie.
This week I have been able to see Maureen for an afternoon tea at Le Bar du Grand Hôtel - beautiful and elegant place for a sit and gab, host Margot (who brought me the most gorgeous tulips and who my fingers are crossed for in becoming my new bestie!!) for dinner (where we may or may not have spied on one of my neighbors across the courtyard who sits at his desk with a black turtleneck on everyday allday looking down - focused. I told her, I think he’s a jeweler (or a psycho) - she concurred. He never caught us - we don’t think - he was too busy making Jewellllls. (as my grandmother would say while she over enunciated!), met with Kelly - one of Erika from America’s friends - who was simply wonderful!, lunch with Miranda, and will be off to see Selden and Thomas for their housewarming soirée this evening.
Such a great week as …
THE HUNT CONTINUES and DRIFTWOOD is EVERYWHERE
This week I felt a burst of energy. Did everyone experience this? I mean the sun is out and that means SPRING has SPRUNG!
Just last night - as I was whipping up another yummy meal and playing in my large kitchen for the final days. Simon said “this morning I rode to work like this!” I looked over at him and he is in full blown permagrin. We started to laugh. He said he smiled the entire way to the office and only when he and his co-worker shared similar feelings about that morning - did he realize that everyone in the world is right! NOT seeing the sun for months (add in freezing cold and a steady spitting rain most days here in Paris) can really cause Winter Blues!
I am happy to report that in a matter of one day - the blues were gone from Paris as we finally saw S U N and felt warmth.
I too have had a permagrin going for the past several days and was feeling extra motivated while I was job hunting. I have been sending my resume to companies, reaching out to old bosses, rekindling old coworker connections etc. I also had the pleasure of getting DRIFTWOOD from one of my NYC besties, E, and … Simon.
For those of you who don’t know what I’m talking about.. Driftwood is of course what floats in the flowing rivers. So I like to think that when I really want something.. say, like a job / opportunity to work / success etc … and then I see others around me in (river) flow getting my desire… I look at those situations as MY driftwood. I like to think that it’s coming for me. It’s only a matter of time. Because it’s all around me.
E, ecstatically told me about this position that she just on a whim applied for - not thinking she was qualified. She also didn’t think she wanted to work for someone at this time, as she has been her own boss for years, yet something made her reach out. She didn’t rave about her (incredible) experience. She told then that she could only work set days. She was direct and no fluff. She downplayed all of her past work - and then showed up for the interview very excervous (my made up word when you’re excited + nervous at the same time!) and ummmm GOT THE JOB on the spot. She practically squealed with excitement as she told me because the place she landed is one of her most inspirational brands in all of NYC. I would elaborate, because I’m so damn proud of her and want you all who live there to go see her, but… she is resting in the excitement and not ready to announce it yet. When she is… Believe me! I’ll be shouting it from the rooftops too and embedding the link so you all can pop in and “feast” on her talent!!!
And it doesn’t stop there! This week. Simon and I had a date on Wednesday. Before I was about to peddle his way he asked me to meet him for a beer (at the place where we met - close to his office nine months earlier - Bar du Moulin). When he walked up he couldn’t hold it in. He said. “We closed the deal today!!” He was beaming! And so was I. He told me every part of the process and why this was so big and what was next and how happy he was. I felt so proud for him and so excited! He’s in FLOW! Because ONE day later - he shared with me that another deal in Italy had closed for his team. His flow… and my driftwood. It’s all so good!
WEEK’S END
Today it’s a bit colder outside - so the perfect day to make dough! I am preparing to make a birthday pecan pie for Helen, one of Simon’s friends who we are having a celebration lunch for tomorrow. Tonight we are going over to Selden and Thoma’s new apartment for a house warming. Tomorrow we will wake up and set the table and get everything prepared for the party. Simon is making his infamous chicken. And at some point this weekend/early next week I am finally supposed to see Boog.. better known to everyone else in the world as Sunny Melet. I can’t wait to get my arms around her!
Until the next En Route…
Xxo ac