How is this possible that we are already at the end of our first month in 2025?
“Go to the mattresses.”
I always thought this line was made famous from You’ve got Mail (a remake to only one of the greatest films of all time, Sleepless in Seattle!!). Alas, after locking myself into a movie marathon of ALL THREE Godfathers this weekend, I learned that the origin of this kitschy phrase was actually Italian. It was a meaning that signified the time to flee city homes during war time in the 1930s in order to seek refuge by ‘going to the mattresses’ to nest away from the confusion.
So, that said, with this second month of mine in 2025 – I will too be preparing to ‘go to the mattresses’ – code in my life: find a cozy spot to nest for a second as I figure out my next move in this game called life.
AWAKENINGS
This past week I learned so much! I learned that it is possible to buy in Manhattan (regardless of your low budget. (Yes, this is not to say that my heart hasn’t been broken about umpteen times after learning that my dream apartment isn’t $450k but more like $4.5m. But nonetheless I have learned a ton about the process if this is something I’m interested in doing.) I learned that death is a time to rally together - due to the confusion and heartbreak it causes (a childhood friend from home passed away, a friend’s mother passed away, and a friend of a friend’s father passed – all unexpectedly. All tragic.). On a happy note, I learned that a bébé absorbs everything. I learned that I am a great and patient and happy aunt. I learned that the weather from last winter was NOT an anomaly – it is actually exactly what the weather is here in France (forever cloudy or rainy) will be. I learned that I have been missed while away from my new expat friends over these past two/three months of USA + London travels. I learned that South Carolina looks très chic dressed in snow (they had 8”). I learned that people have different communication styles than me and that there are ways to adhere. I learned that I am capable of change at any moment. And today, I learned that the food at SoHo House in 2025 did not get upgrade – it’s still disgusting and stale. Not a complaint. Just a datapoint.
This morning I woke up before the sun. There is absolutely nothing better in my opinion. Before 730am I had meditated (upgrade), texted all of my friends back from the night before (USA time zones mean I greet everyday with a slew of messages from my friends and family back home), booked 2 tickets for the Notre Dame (eeeeep), and checked one last time on Realtor.com and StreetEasty.com for apartments in NYC just in case anything had been updated during that 6 hour snooze I took from the last time I checked. Now, I am writing this EN ROUTE and watching the yellow sun peer behind the building and shine bright. What a great way to start!
As I mentioned earlier, it is unbelievable that it is already the end of our first month in January. How on earth did it go by so fast? I think because this month I remember every day – every moment. It’s often said that time flies when you’re having fun. But I don’t believe that for a minute. I understand it, of course. It feels fleeting when you reminisce about the memory of a good time. Alas, when you really think about it. When you’re having fun – you’re there, in the moment, soaking every single minute of the experience. It doesn’t fly by. It’s actually quite long – because you’re there. With it. You know? It’s only when I look back that I think wow that went by so quickly. What a gift to have all of this time. And to have had the greatest month so far of 2025. I think that means – it’s only going to get better from here. So I’m looking forward to a long (full memory) year.
REWIND
Until this very moment, I had not laid eyes on My Margot since well before I left for my month long tour in the USA. She was a sight for sore eyes and my lady in red this day. Beautiful as ever – we giggled and shared stories of all that has been happening with us over these 60+ days with little contact. Upgrade! We met at Bistrot Mee and it was delicious!! When I left her, I practically bounced my way over to meet My (other) Margaux (slight change of spelling – yet pronounced the very same and loved the very same amount. J’obsessed (not a word but means EVERYTHING) avec les deux) and her mama, Miranda. It was a day full of lady dates and I couldn’t have felt more happy. Arriving on the scene of a boodle’s playground – the second she locked eyes with her “tata AC” she squealed and started kicking her little legs and waving her hands with excitement. (How most people greet me… I wish!) Her favorite aunt was entering stage left as she bounced her way off of the seesaw and into my arms for a mouth kiss. After we had clapped 1000xs and threw a parade in her honor when she slid down the big slide, we convinced her that a glass of milk was just what she wanted at exactly the moment her mother and I wanted a glass of Perrier and a cozy spot to gab. Once we settled in, Miranda and I caught up as Margaux rearranged my purse on repeat – everyone in the restaurant by the time we left knew that I had 6 Ricolas, a gel pen, three stickers, a metrocard, two credit cards, a safety pen, a paperclip, loose change for days, a piece of beach glass from my first trip to Brittany with Simon, and keys!! Lots and lots of keys. Her mama had just handed over their apartment keys, my spare key that I asked them to keep for me, and a fob for the day that I will be picking up the boodle from her crèche. More on that in a bit. But we had a ball! Speaking of balls – Miranda looks more and more precious as her tiny body is growing that boodle bowling ball in her tummy!
After my precious afternoon date with them I voice-texted Caroline to make plans of her popping into the city for my birthday in a few weeks – while I walked passed and gave the beauty, Eiffel Tour, a wave and a moment of silence as she lit up nice and bright for all of us onlookers that evening. I circled over to the Seine and made my way over to Ristorante Napoletano (better known as Chez Tony to the locals) for the best pizza and beers before Dolce & Gabbana called.
I have been dying to see Du Cœur À La Main Dolce & Gabbana exhibit at Grand Palais for weeks now and finally I got tickets for the latest check-in possible. It. Was. EVERYTHING! If you’re here in Paris and can stop what you’re doing… DO! And GO! The feathers, the darkness of chic funeral attire adorning nearly every corner, the rooms of stark white, the sounds of heartbeats in one room and broken glass in another, the gowns, the gloves (gloves!!!!!), the tuxedos, the capes, the embroideries, the embellishments, the beadwork, the scarves, the sequins, the colors, the fur, the shoes made of glass (what?!!!), and the wedding dress which inspired the dress in the Godfather (hence the movie marathon I will be discussing at length in a bit). After feasting my eyes and getting run out by the guards (nearly the last one to leave), I practically danced my way home on a gorgeous night – buzzing from the joy! Reaching my treehouse just in time before the rain fell heavy from those moody gloomy clouds, was the perfect way to start the weekend. J’adore!
This weekend was lazy – in the best way possible. It was full of rainy strolls over to Montmartre and the 17th. It was full of laughter (couch giggles) and terror (in the form of film marathons – Sister Brothers and ALL of the Godfathers. J’obsessed with Al Pacino!!!). It was filled with good food – Southern breakfast for dinner (North Carolina stone grits with stirred in French crème fraîche, local beurre demi-sel, served with sauteed spinach, thinly sliced crispy bacon, and eggs scrambled in the bacon fat) and homemade stove popcorn for the films (avec beaucoup beurre). It was also a weekend full of connection. Talk about a long (memorable) weekend. I had a ball!
LADY DATES
And… the start to this week?? Très bien too!
I kicked it off with a lady date. I met Leah, Ariel and Cara at Buvette on Monday – where we held court for almost THREE hours giggling and discussing all the beauty tricks: rubberbanding your ears at night, botox, haircuts, styling, tapping your mouth closed while you snooze, and then silicon suction cups that I am convinced are NOT sold in a shop anywhere on the planet. The only place they seem to exist is the world wide web. Believe me, Ariel and I spent the afternoon in search. I left the girls where we all had homework – podcasts to forward, articles to send, and introductions to people we discussed. It was an UPGRADE of a lunch.
The next day I practically JUMPED out of bed. Was it Christmas? Pretty much! It was the day I was picking up bébé Margaux from her crèche. I was so excited!
Before that Margaux, I went to meet my other other Margot – from Belgium and who makes me laugh just at the sight of her. She is pure JOY. I haven’t seen her for over six months and believe me! We made up for it. We had a ball – per the usual. She makes me laugh so hard. There is never anything heavy with Margot. She is light, belly-laughy, and naturally-beautiful (ALL of my Margo's/Marguaxs are. Even Margot Stilley – my childhood friend from home who turned model/actress. The name Margot must equal flawless on some level. Anyway…) She has the most classic style too. Very French. Oversized, loose, and all black. I was supposed to visit them over the summer at her and her husband’s family beach home. Since I couldn’t make it, she shared all of the funny stories that happened and had me in stitches. I won’t miss another one! I can promise you that! Sounded too fun. She’s the kind of friend who, no matter when or where, being around her is an upgrade. So, practically bouncing away from our lunch, I pogo-ed all the way over to the 15eme where a boodle bébé was waiting for her auntie “tata AC” to pick her up.
Margaux spied me from across the crèche room with all her pals and bolted to me! She is the most precious boodle in all the land and the way she looks up at me with her bashful smile and gaze - with that pure LOVE and trust simply melts my heart. I offered to pick her up that day because her glamorous mama flew to LA for an Oscars party that she and her company produce every year, and her papa couldn’t get off by the time the crèche needed to close early that day. (No reason why this closure was needed. Mais, Welcome to France!).
I walked in, showed my ID with a smile that wouldn’t quit! And then proudly walked to Margaux’s room. I was with the administrator who escorted me. When I spotted her and locked eyes she LIT UP. Body electric. She started doing the same move that she did on the playground a few days before. Legs bounced and arms started waving uncontrollably. Ahhhhh DELICIOUS! She was over the moon that her lady date was about to commence.
She announced her favorite “Tata AC!” to the room immediately – yelling my name. Lamb. After I mouth kissed her for about the 20th time, I met with her teacher to learn (en franchises) that she took a 2 hour nap, ate all her lunch, and had a poopy in the afternoon. I thought (as my mother would say) ‘I so proud!’
Taking my hand, Margaux escorted me out and immediately showed me to her cubby. Pulling out all of her things: sweater, boots, jacket, and mittens. We then held hands as she walked me to her stroller. Uh oh!! They ALL looked the same. They were the same color! We went to each and at the same time – we recognized hers! Margaux started squealing “c'est là!!” Heart exploded. I strapped her in and off we went. The park… Here we come!
When we arrived, she slid on the slide, played on the bouncy toy and then tried to make friends with a very tough Parisian crowd. (I thought, moi aussi, Margaux. Be patient, my lamb. As they did with me – they can’t help but fall in love with you, ma chérie!) They weren’t giving her an easy invite to the pretend birthday party they were throwing in their 2 - 4 year-old club house under the monkey bars. But, she preserved (with the help of an encouraging Tata AC who smiled constantly at her) as she eased into bravely taking a seat for the belting of “joyeux anniversaire.” I felt like a proud mama watching her play with her new friends. Guarding her, but also letting her go as she wanted. She was so happy – shy and patient – but happy to be included. Boodle!!
She soon made her way to the exit gate when the loud and joyful, and ironically in English, tune of Pop Goes the Weasel blaring from the lit carousel.
I couldn’t resist taking her right away! Her mama had given me two tokens for the boodle to use for her rides. It is PRECIOUS. The kids are given tokens – they choose what toy car or lion or flying bus that they want to ride in – and then, as the ride is in motion, the operator takes a leap onto the moving platform to collect all the tokens from the kids with his bucket. I LOVED this so so so much! Not all things are better here in France, but this?! This is for sure. I love that the children are made responsible (at 1.9 years old in Marguax’s case who turns a whopping 2 full years in a few short days) for their ‘payment.’
I have NEVER seen her happier in all my life. The bébé teeth were out as she hopped in the bus and waited for the ride to start. Everytime she passed I would say “bravo Margaux!” and wave and clap – only ‘parent’ (for the day) to do this. All the other Parisian moms wouldn’t dare! Hahaha killed me. The other kids looked at me in wonder and amazement as their parents did. And Margaux? She just gleamed of pride that that was her auntie AC acting like a fool clapping and carrying on for her, and her only, doing nothing particularly worthy of the happy uproar. I loved this moment. She is too young for me to embarrass her with my applause of her doing ummmm absolutely nothing, but looking absolutely edible to resist!
She soon made her way to the gate which I have learned is her bébé sign that she’s had enough and is ready to go.
On our stroll home she broke my heart when she attempted to cry when I attempted to tuck her in the stroller. So, with time on my hands and a boodle who wanted to walk, we made our way home hand-in-hand, at a sloth-speed. J’adore! She listened to every word and never let go of my hand. Until… eek… A garage door opened just as we were walking past it. It scared her to death! Her baby body convulsed with fear and I immediately picked her up. She looked terrified! I let go of the stroller and cradled the almost hysterical-sobbing baby (I felt we were all only seconds away from hearing her scream bloody murder) until she calmed down and rested. I asked if it had scared her and if she would feel more safe if we went to see what was behind that movable door. She shook her head with a definitive NO. But I knew she needed to see that it wasn’t something to be fearful of. So we patiently waited as I explained that the cars she loves (she’s in that phase right now – all 2 year old toy-car phase) lives behind those doors. She giggled with that explanation. Thank god!! There we go. Sigh of tata AC relief. She was back! After the car came out and we smiled, she still insisted on being held for the rest of the walk home. So – let this be in INK – I have SO MUCH respect and admiration for ALL the parents who do this daily for their boodles. Swapping a precious (yet HEAVY af) boodle from one hip to the next on repeat while pushing the stroller. Good GAWD!
Papa came home just in time. She must have an internal clock because she knew exactly what time he was expected home and that he was exactly running late. She would run to the door, throw her arms in the air to be held and then start yelling through her perma-grin “Papa!! Papa!!” and each time (until it finally was him) as I had her in my arms, I would have to break her heart with “Pas encore boodle. But he is coming!”
After Nico came in and shocked her life with excitement – PRECIOUS – and handed over tata AC payment in the form of 2 dark-chocolate candy bars. Yummy! I made out with the pooky for the final time and then left to meet Emily at Mashil for dinner. Another UPGRADE lady date!!!!
We arrived at 10:30am to an empty queue on Wednesday morning. It was unreal. I had woken up at the crack of dawn that day and booked two free tickets for Notre Dame. She was pristine. Looked brand new and yet ancient and full of history and prestige. I hadn’t set foot in her since 2006. 19 years ago!!! I will never take her for granted again. We lingered at each cubby, altar, window, statue, and masterful artwork. Made Justine and me crave to rewatch the 60 Minutes episode with the rebuild details and the Netflix Documentary about it.
When we left we went to Chanceux for a chia and gab where I felt I had never seen Justine SO happy. She is a part-time professor now and radiates when she talks about it.
After arriving home I had a long conversation with my mother and then a long conversation with my pops – family catch up kind of day. Which was another UPGRADE. And then? I attended the yummiest of Yin classes at Rasa. (I’ve recently gotten back on the mat and it feels SO GOOD. I remember each time I’m there, touching down, getting centered, moving my body, feeling strong, feeling connected, that I am a teacher too! I forget what my body is capable of until I get on the mat. I forget that I have hours upon hours of learning and teaching in the practices of yin, yoga nidra, and of course Astanga (what I practiced nearly everyday for 6 years). I am so happy to be connected again and back on my mat. It helps that Rasa is incredibly chic!!).
Talk about family catch up day… Thursday was no different! I got an upgrade with my sister-friend/muse, Fanny. We met for a roasted tea at RECTO VERSO. We had a plan to meet at 11am, and by 1pm we were shocked that we hadn’t moved for two solid hours. UPGRADE. I shared with Fanny about a conversation I had just had with Justine the day before. Justine called in this incredible opportunity months ago – her professor job. She had narrowed down a time in her life when she felt alive at work. She kept bringing up those feelings and memories of that time / of that job (working with people younger than her and leading them in projects / activities). Ummmmm, lo and behold, when she returned from her summer holiday Sorbonne university connected WITH HER – she didn’t have to go find it at all. WILD and so flowy. J’adore! They reached out to her about teaching (leading) a course to students (younger people). She is now so happy, feeling so energized and ready for more of these kinds of teaching opportunities. UPGRADE. Telling this to Fanny, she changed a few words around and then gave me the same exercise. She asked what city I had been the happiest in, where I had felt the most excited, etc etc etc. It gave me such a sense of security to talk these things out with her. In that moment I talked through a plan – a roadmap to figure out my next move / idea for the future with all of these feelings in mind. Lightbulb moment. She is one of the wisest people to listen to (while being the most chic to look at – keeping me calm and engaged.) I love her so!
I’m looking forward to all that is about to happen in my life. I finally feel more settled after this family-catch up moment.
I also am looking forward to holding my birthday drinks at her beautiful new bar, La Bonbonnette Bar à Vin, in Le Marais in a week. I couldn't be more proud of her and husband Parick with it, and over the moon to introduce my friends to their newest treasure of a place.
I am off later to have a beautiful dinner at Brigitte and if there is time (I mean, I am at SoHo for the final EN ROUTE edits, and it’s a very moody cloudy day – so a visit to the steam and sauna feels almost mandatory), I plan to visit the YSL Museum for Les Fleurs d’YSL exhibit. If I miss it tonight, I will plan to see her tomorrow
Until next time.. Xxo ac
ps: Design energy is in the air. Before I left for London a few weeks ago — I met Jaci, my precious new American French Lady Crush Sister Friend type (le même que Fanny pour moi) at the 200 Lex New York in Paris party at Hoxton Hotel. I had been given the invitation by an old friend, John, who couldn’t attend and told me to go enjoy. Gladly! He had also introduced me to Jaci many moons ago. So she was an absolute pleasure of a plus-one for me. The party was everything! and so so fun to not have to think about how I will say “X” en français... but to just freely engage in English. AND to unexpectedly run into several friends who I didn’t know would be there (one, author of Joie), and meet new friends (one, Hellman Chang designer), Eric. It was an upgrade of a night where Jaci and I shut it down and had the best time together!! My point in sharing this is that since then.. the energy in Paris has been full on designy.
I’m HERE FOR IT!