EN ROUTE // VOL. ITALY

CHAPTER ONE: ROAMING IN ROME

May 03, 2023

// things that go my way

On my first leg of the trip I was upgraded to first class — this happens to me a lot! I don’t know whether it’s because I make small talk with the Delta clerk or whether it’s because lately I’ve been traveling solo so I’m an easy add-on… or whether they just randomly select my name … whatever it is I hope they continue this method because I LOVE IT! I was seated beside Giana Carla Ward – an Italian born who was Venice bound and devastated to learn I wouldn't be on her second leg of the trip … as I was EN ROUTE to Rome.

She, like a true Italian grandmother – told me to keep my purse closely tucked to me at all times and was wildly relieved to hear that I was meeting friends over there (I didn’t tell her that I didn’t have a plan at all for 10ish days of my trip … I figured that would cause my new nonna a lot of unneeded stress!)

My second flight I level upped again when they sat me on the exit row [leg room for days] beside Troy. He made my trip!! Troy was smiley from the get go. I usually tuck my earbuds in the minute I step foot on the tarmac to avoid any unnecessary smalltalk and to set the tone with my seatmate that eh I’d rather not. Alas.. Troy was something else! He launched into a story about how he and his partner had just bought a villa in Allerona for a “stupid price” – $160k. (That’s less than I’ve paid for rent since living my short time in Charleston!) Since I knew he couldn’t stay but for three months at a time given the EU visa regulations (urg!) I asked what his plan was for the villa on the off months that he would be stateside. He told me that he plans to keep it open and available for all of his friends to pop over and enjoy anytime they want – I was thankful we were becoming besties!

My avenue of green lights continued as the trip unfolded. I was the last one to step onto the express train to Rome from the FCO airport, was seated before a large crowd lined up behind me for my first meal, and was able to wink my way into dinner that night at Pierluigi (where they sent over dish after dish for me to “try” as a favor to them)... this continued to happen… our concierge finagled a reservation for Dal Bolegnese (an unheard of feat… if you come to Rome… make a reservation in ADVANCE for this special place) and finally – our greenest of green lights was being invited to an audience with Pope Francis. ROME was great to me!

BACKDROP

// running weekly theme + inspiration

Jane.

My first stop on this three month long trip is to be with my best friend, Jane, and her in-laws. They’re all over for her brother-in-law’s priest ordination. Thirteen years in — this weekend — Luke Gill was officially titled Father Gill. I missed his ordination – alas, his connections with the Big Man upstairs got us front row to an audience with… wait for it… wait for it… Pope Francis! (I’ve spent more time planning my pope-outfit than I have on the trip itself. Yes – a fascinator was involved.)

On the trip, we overheard someone calling these incredibly handsome Men of God “Father What-a-Wastes” … I have to agree. Maybe it’s they’re off-limit-ness that makes them so heart-throbby but WOW I second… What a waste… Father!

We have had a ball! And fun news. Two months before we left – Jane found out she was expecting a bambina!!! She warned me before I arrived that this trip will need to be filled with lots of small meals and naps… I booked immediately!

SAVE ROOM

// coffee + snack time + pranzo (lunch) + cena (dinner) + sweets (gelato, cake, candy)

Rome is filled with the most scrumptious food.

First restaurant set the bar for my food standard. Roscioli! A line formed behind me the second I landed on this idea to pop in… and no wonder! It was divine. Simple, clean, perfect portions, and kind service. It’s cash only so be prepared before you go. My first bite in Rome was a bite of handmade burrata with anchovy, followed by homemade meatballs … divino!

For dinner I strolled over to Pierluigi for fish and freebies! Didn’t know it would come with so much service but have I mentioned my avenue of green lights kind of traveling? I was brought out a plate of fried squid to wet the pallet while my seabass in saffron sauce with mussels was being prepared. One of the most magical nights. My waiter told me that they would serve 200 people that night — happy I was number 1. (You can put the girl in Italy for dinner but you can’t take the early bird timing out of her. I was the first one when the doors opened.) For dessert, I ordered the hazelnut and raspberry parfait (it was more like a block of ice cream than a layered parfait) and then my waiter delivered a plate of cookies with a side of winks. I find when I dine solo I am treated like a royal. Note to self… dine out… always!

Claire and Landon were in town for a quick night – Jane's great friends from Richmond and mine from college. We had a ball. We all met at their Hotel Vilòn lobby bar to have cocktails [if you go..may I recommend La Giraffa if you like the following random flavors: vanilla, lime, coca, bourbon, and are you ready? Apricot!] then to Antico Arco for the best dinner perched high high up in Trastevere.

SoHo House – was a fairytale of a dinner and setting. It was raining that evening so we ducked in just in time for the downpour for a mezcal, pizza inglesina, and the caramel gelato biscuit dessert with chocolate glaze [it will keep you up for DAYS but worth every lick!]

Dal Bolognese was my favorite Roman restaurant ambiance. Waiters wore tailored jackets and pulled out the chairs for the ladies, the maitre d' pretended to be booked solid when a random tourist off the street - sporting nothing but spray painted “Roma” hoodie attire - asked about availability (love the snobbery!) and rich italian women admired all their jewels over wine while their husbands smoked cigars. Jane and I again took the avenue of green lights all the way there as our hotel concierge did the impossible and got us a table last minute! AND the second (I’m talking second) after we walked in and sat - the heavens released. We sat for hours eating decadent food while the other average tourists (really what we are… but not in those few glorious hours!) drowned in rain. It felt like the quintessential luxury lunch. Jane and I couldn’t get enough. Or I couldn’t. Sweet Jane’s bambina had her downing nothing but coke-a-cola with lemon and bread …to calm the quiziness. Poor mama!

ADDRESS BOOK

// the yellow pages for when you travel to this city

HOTEL LOCARNO // Via della Penna, 22, 00186 Roma RM
1. It's paradise. Whimsical garden lounge area [where you could have found me most mornings for cappuccinos and later afternoon for a glass of vino. Everything you order here comes with a treat. A private glass cookie-jar in the mornings with mini pastries and three to four snacks in the evening with your cocktail. The rooms are EVERYTHING. Jane booked this one – roomy and comfy [first day together we reverted to college days - napping midafternoon in the same bed. Yes.. under covers and all.]
2. Oh! And wild enough. Julian Schnoble [renowned artist and savant who I knew in Montauk when I worked for Bob Melet] was here while I was! WILD. 4,400 miles away and 10 years later – we find ourselves at the same hotel, on the same nights, only two tables away. SMALLEST and magical OF WORLDS!
ROSCIOLI // via dei giubbonari 21 // *cash only
PIERLUIGI // Piazza de Ricci 144 // fish
EMMA // Via del Monte della Farina, 28 // cozy pizzeria
SoHo HOUSE // Via Cesare de Lollis, 14 // members only or get a member to give you a day pass!
DAL BOLOGNESE // Piazza del Popolo, 1 // MAKE RESERVATIONS they are snobby about tourists
Il Marchese // Via di Ripetta, 162