WHAT COMES BEFORE PART B?
Last time I left you .. I was about to go find out what happens before Part B… PARTAAAAAAAAA!
Friday night was ummmm the best night of my life (until Monday night came.. And then that slid easily into first place. More on that night to come.)
I started out hosting my sweet friend Amanda at my apartment for a little deep convo and present opening. She had smuggled a few goodies from my mother for my birthday. So sweet! We took our time walking to BAMBINO – where we instantly took up residence of four side-by-side tables. (and then… almost immediately we were being talked to by the owner, who insisted that if (when) it got too crazy in there he would have to kick us out. I told him he had my word that it wouldn’t be over 8 people. He didn’t see that my fingers were crossed behind my back – giving myself full permission to deliver a bébé white lie. I was anticipating double attendance.)
Everyone came! Everyone! [Amanda, Simon, Gabrielle, Margot, Miranda, Mel, Dhruv, Seldon, Thomas, David, Marshall, Jillian, Sarah — intimate and super!] And I had permagrin all the livelong night. Sadly – the only bad thing about the entire evening – was that we didn’t capture it on a camera at all. Only way to prove we nearly shut it down – was by this blurry photo of the DJ who I pretended was only spinning records for yours truly.
That night all my friends fell in love with each other. If you know me well, you know that it’s always my intention. To connect my friends together and hope that they start their own relationships. On a sad note.. If you remember my previous En Route. I am afraid to say that my arrow missed. The two who I wanted to set up – didn’t spark.
Simon fell in love with Thomas, Seldon’s boyfriend. Yay! Overjoyed!!! Now I get to see my American friend all the time with our handsome French boyfriends.
WEEKEND
SATURDAY Was a struggle. I met Amanda for lunch and a rainy stroll – then we both napped before we met for drinks at Bar Sotto, under CARBONI’S. Once Simon arrived from his tennis match – we ate at the bar (my favorite way to dine), talked all things wine with our over enthusiastic sommelier, and discussed Simon’s contract for his upcoming modeling career with Amanda’s new tennis brand Spence. We decided that since he’s the exact mix of Bradley Cooper + Ralph Fiennes – he would be perfect, and worth every penny … or tennis swag!
SUNDAY I made my way to Gare du Nord, where I picked up Sarah. She was coming from the Cotswolds with her friend, Addie. Another rainy day, I brought her back to my apt so she could gush about my new digs (which she did instantly), deposit her things, freshen up, and bundle so we could lunch rendezvous with Amanda at Chez Janou.
We had it ALL. Gambas flambées au Pastis avec riz anisé, magret de canard au romarin, tagliatelles aux escargots, and of course we finished with their famous house special.. The chocolate mouse. “Monsieur, we’re gonna need a round of cappuccinos to wash this fluffy decadence down, s'il vous plaît!”
Après… We did what any tourist would do. We took the long way. I walked them through Place des Vosges (my favorite!), then through the Cour et Jardin de l'Hôtel de Sully. The secret garden. Then down Rue Saint Antoine, then over to île Saint Louis (where the wind was about to knock us down), over the hill to Notre Dame, through the Place Dauphine (behind Sainte-Chapelle), and finally arriving at the Vedettes du Pont Neuf, where we took a bateaux down the Seine. (Simon’s suggestion for all of my friends and family who are visiting Paris for the first time. It’s always a hit – see to the top spots right when the trip begins so at least they feel they have seen it all if they happen to miss it during the stay.) If only you could hear our conversations! Since we couldn’t make out what our guide was saying… Cue Sarah.. “So is this English now?” Cue Amanda.. “I think he’s still speaking French”... we caught up about it all. And lawd have mercy! If there was an extreme right or an extreme left winged person on that boat and heard all that we were discussing. We three would have been canceled with a capital C. I LOVED it. I miss these two so much. We laughed at all that’s going on in the world and tried to figure out how anyone is going to survive the nonsense.
ANY. WAY…
We ate crepes and drank cider, en route back home, at BREIZH CAFÉ and then.. oh! WAIT! As we were walking back to Le Marais I looked down and ummmmm found a crisp new 50€. OUI! I had just been saying a day before that I needed some cash. And just like that… ask and you shall receive... I was given some on the street. (I spent it all on my birthday drinks with S + A two days later – good omen I thought!)
MON ANNIVERSAIRE
I got to school the day of my birthday and almost (let’s be real.. There’s nothing “almost” about it) instantly told everyone it was my birthday. I LOVE MY BIRTHDAY! I don’t mind if everyone in the world knows I’m in celebration… Makes me happier… because typically they join in on the smiles and exclamations. After the fourth or fifth round of Bon Anniversaire sung by my classmates — time was up for the day and I went to meet A + S for a stroll through Jardin du Luxembourg and then the Odeon. When we reached LA PALETTE – we got a table on their sun-room-terrace and ate the greatest lunch. Again, we went down a rabbit hole with our discussions and ummmm you guessed it… as the giggles erupted when we discussed Elizabeth Gilberts new “happy monk” hairdo… we got SHHHHHHED by two french ladies who were appalled at our volume - or maybe our conversation. After all… they too were sporting pretty short dos.
That’s how those two days were. Rolling laughter sandwiched between deep conversations.
When we left… we saw a complete rainbow over the Louvre. You all who know me best.. know rainbows come to me all the time. Felt like a great start to my jackpot of gold year!
EVEN AFTER MY LUCKY RAINBOW. NO LUCK..
We went to SoHo so that we could all do what I do best – spa – on my birthday. Alas, there’s a first time for everything. And today… was my first time not getting a friend into the sauna. They weren’t letting Sarah in.
Have you ever wondered if things will run out? Like, the number of times you can say … take an extra chocolate from the bowl in a waiting room without being told to put it back, or sneak in a snack to the cinema without being caught, or host a friend at a members-only-club (ahem SoHo) without any problems? Today my luck had run out there. I had used up all my freebies I guess in the spa universe.
They weren’t budging. They told me it was a no-go. Hard for me to swallow because as an American, we are taught that “the customer is always right.” “To make exceptions even when it’s probably not the right thing to do” – just to keep a smile on your paying customer’s face. So when I’m not met with the same in France (which is always the case) I can’t understand it. In France, the rules are always above the customer’s needs.
To get her downstairs to my happy place on my birthday no less, I did so much as to get on my knees and beg (ok.. maybe not that far).. but to no avail. She was escorted to the “guest showers” beside the pool. Not a chic experience! And NOT the experience I wanted her to have on my birthday – my birthday is meant to be pleasurable for ALL - don’t they know!?
She showered there and dried her hair with a wait for it, wait for it, dyson dryer… hand dryer that is. Fortunately she’s a beauty. So no one could tell at all that she had been whipping her hair back and forth for an hour to speed the drying process before drinks.
MAY THE NIGHT BEGIN… MA NOUVELLE ANNÉE
We had dirty martinis at the bar and then took an Uber to our host’s apartment.. Chez Simon. He was OVER THE MOON to have us. Radiating in fact. (If only I could upload a video here. And maybe I can. But, well, I’m not. I could prove it. His legs shake with excitement as he sings happy birthday and places my cake in front of me.) He looked so proud all night. He looked impressed with my friends [Amanda, Sarah, and Miranda] and impressed with his birthday girlfriend. He made us [two of his best friends … who are fast becoming mine too.. Benjamin and Paule also came!] the best raclette dinner I have ever eaten paired with my favorite salad of his – pure herbs.
During the dinner – Sarah told us all that we were going to play a game. “We were all going to go around the table and say a quality that we love/admire about AC and something we wish for her in her new year.” Simon started with “I love the way Anne Caroline stands…” CAN. YOU. HANDLE?! So romantic. In short… I basically blacked out as the compliments flowed from everyone’s mouth. It went something to the tune of … “open heart, elegance, story telling, regalness, conviction, warmth, magnetism” and their wishes for me were just as special. “To stay here in France and settle in, to continue making their best friend happy, to have luck, to have patience, to stay curious..”
Sometimes it’s hard to accept complements about yourself. It makes me (maybe you too?) blush. But oh what a gift! To learn what others think of me. My wish is for YOU ALL to play with with your besties — not just on your birthdays. It’s incredible!
I am the luckiest girl in the world. Simon gave a precious toast after my cake was on the table and we all talked for hours. I have to pinch myself in moments like these. How did I end up here? How am I this age? How will it get any better than this? (even though I KNOW it will… because it continues to with each day.)
Everyone brought me such special gifts. In fact, since we were holding the dinner at Simon’s he thought they were all for him. Ha! Shocked him as my arms were overloaded with all of my cadeaux when leaving. (One thing I simply LOVE about Paris is that you never show up empty handed – similar to how I have always lived.. But here.. It applies to EVERYONE. No wonder he thought they were all for him. It’s the perfect norm!)
Sarah and I took an Uber home and upon arrival I saw the most beautiful bouquet of flowers. My father had sent me Lilies. They are still smiling at me and giving off the most incredible aroma (days later) as I type this EN ROUTE.
Pink and Bashful… my two favorite colors.
FAREWELL
Tuesday was Sarah's final day. After my class we met at Marché Des Enfant Rouge to eat the most incredibly simple meal at THE BUTCHER OF PARIS (ps.. If you’re visiting soon. I will 100% be taking you here. It was the best meal I have ever eaten!), where when you order pain et beurre they bring you a mound. See below for proof.
We wandered around the neighborhood and I bought a pair of CAREL shoes (one of my favorite brands introduced to me years ago by Vivian, my impeccably styled friend) for ummmm 30€. Yep! They were in a vintage shop and were priced at 150€… which I was ready to pay… and then, out of nowhere, the owner of the shop said “I’m selling them for 30€ today.” GREENLIGHT.
Sarah and I fit in as many deep talks as we could with our remaining 6 hours together. And before she left – we dined one last time at a Parisian must in my hood… Chez Charlot. At one point during our meal, the restaurant was at full capacity and the lights went out. Without missing a beat the entire restaurant silenced and then followed the server’s lead in singing Bon Anniversaire. What appeared to be a 12 year old boodle behind me – was blushing as she gazed at her one glowing candle that was illuminating the whole restaurant. PRECIOUS moment!
As I left, I wished her a bon anniversaire and said she was lucky to be born in février. That I was too.. So I am biased. Her family applauded and toasted her (what I would imagine was the French equivalent to a) Shirley Temple.
THE SPOILS OF VALENTINES
Simon spoiled me. He had insisted a few weeks ago that he was NOT one to celebrate a “stupid holiday like valentine's day.” And then this…
I arrived at his home with a petite gift of my own for him – the end piece of pâté en croûte from Maison Vérot, the best charcuterie in Paris. Remembering that the end piece is Simon’s favorite… but forgetting that he hates foie gras (how is this possible?!!!) and that was all in it. His coworker Gabrielle, who I love, benefited from my mistake. Simon and I ate most of the end (him, around the foie gras.. me, all the foie gras) and then I gave the rest to Simon to give to Gabrielle the following day. He loved!
And for me… Simon, who don’t forget.. “hates stupid holidays like valentine’s” … had caviar on ice, a bottle of champagne, and had bought bottarga for a special bottarga pasta – a famed Napoleon dish. Because wait for it… wait for it… Simon also spoiled me with my birthday gift that night. In a small bag, he had a printed photo of Naples, Italy, with the date of April 2024. We will be EN ROUTE there for a mini holiday. Someone PINCH ME!
To finish out our night of romance and decadence, as true French love birds would, we watched Paris Saint-Germain win the Champions League 2024. And since we were only sitting inches apart from one another… with every fumble, flag, missed goal, Simon would mistakenly slap my leg thinking it was his. We laughed hard. Kept me on my toes. Such a special night.
This next week will be a little more lowkey and then it’s back again to mes amis in Paris… as Marissa, Philippa, Kaki, Lori, and more are all coming to Paris for Fashion Week.
Weeks like these, I feel extra happy that I have chosen to live in a big city again – it’s a revolving door of friends and guests.
I’m off to Simon’s now to make us a hardy dinner, as tomorrow he has booked us on a train out to Auvers-sur-Oise for a day of biking in the town!
Xxo ac
Amazing Friend! Love your shares! 😘