NEW YORK STATE OF MIND
... AND BACK TO THE CITY OF LOVE
“Penn Station’s next!” Eeeeep. I practically leaped out of my seat when the conductor made this announcement. I wanted to be the first one out the door and on the hot NYC pavement when we came to a complete stop. Yet, as I made my way to the sliding doors, I saw that the sun was still shining. No way can we be at Penn Station I thought. We’d be underground!
Thank god for this wearing-all-black-habitual-stank-eye-looking-gal sitting to my left who had a moment of kindness. She put her ready-to-argue New York persona aside to tell me, “This is the Jersey Penn Station. NYC is next.” Wow! Relieved that I had been saved from leaping out (and to be reminded that New Yorkers can be kind sometimes.)
Once I arrived at the REAL Penn Station, I got into my cab and felt this energy that only New York is capable of radiating. It’s a buzz to the tune of horns blowing in chaos, an odor wafting about in the air with traces of pollution, homelessness, cigarette smoke, burned kabobs and hotdog steam, it’s the confusion of traffic with bikers heading in the wrong direction, the electric lights that are on every billboard you see, and it’s the tourists who don’t pay mind to those walking behind them when they stop to take an impromptu selfie four-deep on the sidewalk. Ahh! It’s a BUZZ! And, I’m back!
After I arrived at Vivian’s precious home in Cobble Hill, made a mess of her couch by unloading all of my luggage, changed shoes, brushed my teeth, made a quick outfit change, and applied some needed blush to make myself look alive, we set out for a stroll over the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway on the aboveground park. It’s one of my favorite views of the city. Living all my years in Manhattan, I never got the view of my gorgeous city. It shined and looked happy. As we walked I peered at the apartments above me. It was the coolest of the warmest days so far and it appeared to be mandatory for everyone who lived in these buildings to report to their balconies where they sat with friends or family, watched the city buzz, and enjoyed a summer beverage. Perfection!
The path delivered us to Orange Street, which lead us to Cranberry Street. All the fruity rues had us getting hungry by the time we reached Inga’s for dinner. As we walked in, we each declared “I’m not drinking tonight.” Then promptly ordered a draft kölsch and a gin martini. Ooops!
The next day was Viv’s birthday! We started with a gift – even before coffee. (That was actually a strategy, as I brought back the most precious petit pot à lait from Astier de Villatte for her steamed milk.) She loved it. And when she opened up the gift… inside... was a note from the vendor who helped me. His number was scribbled with one line “call me.” Haha! Killed me. He must have tucked his number in the bag when I got the gift. Frenchmen: If anything, they’re bold! Vivian and I had a good laugh over this. I left her with the number … cherry on top!
Before we got our day started, I popped over to Poppy’s to meet my sweet Ali. She and I met in Charleston, where we had both coincidentally moved there within two weeks of one another from NYC. We didn’t know one another in New York but immediately fell in love in the Holy City. She, her husband, and her BEYOND precious boodle, Ruby, are now back in Brooklyn and couldn’t be happier!
** If you have a minute.. read this extra part and brace yourself for the cutest meet cute there ever was: Two weeks into my Charleston debut, I was at Bin 152, my Charleston watering hole, where I had been set up on a husband and wife friend date. As I waited for my duo, in walked Ali with her sister, Sarah. She too was being set up on a friend date (we were newbies searching for friend connections in our new city) – only her date was with a solo girl. When she saw me sitting alone, she assumed I was her. So, she came over to ask “Are you Kat?” my reply was immediate and honest “No. But I wish I was! I want to be friends!” We fell in love instantly. My couple date ended up coming and they were lovely.. But eeek didn’t make the friend cut. Her Kat also came and she was great! I ended up joining them for round three and four that night. When we left, we all exchanged numbers and became fast friends. Kat is still living in Charleston and sadly, I don’t keep up with her much. But Ali bird?! She’s the real deal. That night, she became (and still is) one of my best friends. Lucky us!
Meeting Vivian at the F train, we sought out on our long journey to the MET where we were excited to see the Sleeping Beauties - Reawakening Fashion exhibit. (This exhibition had a 2hr wait. So… instead of cueing up. Viv decided to become a member of the museum to accelerate the reservation time for us. Ha! It was great and worked! We got in on the last call that day with ease.)
Once in, we made our way to the rooftop where we basked in the great outdoors (that is, the great 6 story high view of a cement city – but outdoors nonetheless.) It was the most beautiful day with a view that didn’t quit! New York City skyline… a dream! We would have stayed longer, but the wind gusts had another idea. After getting tossed around, we went back inside to see the exhibition.
After viewing the most incredible historical collections in Sleeping Beauties, sniffing the walls (yes.. This was part of the exhibit and beyond bazaar and gross kinda), and bumping into probably all the up and coming designers there for inspo, we ate our lunch in the fancy museum dining hall overlooking Central Park. It was the best day! Because after all of this… we then made our way back to Brooklyn where we speedily showered, tried on 1000 outfits, downed a coffee, and hailed (let’s be honest, a pre-booked) Uber to Eleven Madison Park for the birthday soirée with Fiona!
Our dinner was a spectacular service of 10 vegetable courses … and all pieces of art. When we arrived the chef greeted us with a very familiar tone and excitement to see Viv. It came out later in the evening – that he and Vivian had been friends way back in the day. But, ahem, the way he gushed over her, I’m not convinced there wasn’t a crush from the past on his part. But what do I know!? He could have just caught what I catch every time I enter the city … that good ol’ New York Buzz. Such a magical night ringing in Vivian’s new year with great food, laughter, and conversations with two of my bests.
On Tuesday I woke up early (will the jet lag ever leave and let me SLEEP?! Favorite part about traveling back to the US is that I wake up with the sun to seize the day. But three weeks in… I’m like.. Can mama get a little shuteye?! No rest for the friend-visiting-city-buzz-weary, eh? I’m here for it.) I walked the Brooklyn Bridge over to Air Mail – the coolest shop created by Graydon Carter, former editor of Vanity Fair. I was sipping my coffee in the back garden when I heard a flirt happening inside. She was here!!!! Erica had arrived. We the same! She was making smalltalk with the barista and making everyone happier who was in earshot. Me, especially, included. Ah! I love this better and blond version of southern moi.
We gabbed until 3pm that day, when I put her back on her train. We gabbed at Air Mail, at Merriweather Coffee + Kitchen, at St. Luke in the Field (secret) Garden (where we definitely were being kept company by an itty bitty mouse), we gabbed as we strolled all the way up to the Meatpacking district where we continued to gab at Pastis over our meals and lemonades. And we were gabbing until we kissed goodbye and prayed I didn’t spread her the COVID (yes. I was feeling rotten starting this day and didn’t shake it until Thursday night when back in Paris.)
It was food for my soul to look at her in person while she shared everything that’s happening with her: decisions she’s making on moves, businesses, projects, life, and the upcoming fall, and seeing her look at me as I shared all that has been going on in my world.
I feel so proud to be her friend. And felt like I had an upgrade that day being around her.
** Again, if you have time.. here’s another precious meet cute: I interviewed her for our team at American Express many moons ago. We fell in love third-question in when we started talking about the South. She’s from ‘Bama and speaks my southern love language. We hired her practically on the spot. So, when I decided to move out of the city a few short years later, I “needed” her to meet my best friend Will. Happy to report, as I knew they would, they too fell in love… and in 2016 I accepted their invitation to be their ring bearer at their wedding. I’m cupid!
On my walk home I had the pleasure of stealing Fiona away from her incredible company, Maät, for another quickie solo date. I have the BEST friends who fill me up!
GIGGLES
Tuesday night I got to snuggle down another bestie. Marrisa met me at Hibino for the best Japanese in town. She lives in Hudson, New York, now with her husband – so it was a pure and utter thrilling coincidence that she was in the city for the two nights I was there! FLOW!
We had the greatest time – switching between laughs and tears, talking deeply, sorting out the world’s issues, and advising one another on ways to move through this new chapter of our life. As our conversation continued, so did the cue outside. We were told that “we are seating this table in one minute.” Welcome to New York! Brash and to the point. That was code for “get up now before I tip your chairs over and kick you out of them!” We got the message and moved to the sidewalk where Marissa was given a to-go container for her final sips of wine in exchange for the glass she was holding. We stood until the people who were waiting for “our” table finally moved inside – and we could sit in the collapsible exterior chairs to continue our date for another hour.
She makes me laugh so hard and has a way of seeing the world that is clear and easy. My tank… filled! (She also hates for her picture to be taken. So we improvised and giggled more as she lifted her sake and wine, and I lifted my still and sparkling H2O over our smeyes.)
FINAL BITE OF THE BIG APPLE
Wednesday I decided to spend the day in Brooklyn. I lunched at Agi’s Counter, went to the Brooklyn Museum to see GIANTS (Alicia Keys and Swizz Beats collection), the Eye’s of the Storm (Paul Mcartney photographs), and view Hiroshige’s 100 Famous Views of Edo. I met Viv for beers at Covenhoven, ate dinner at her favorite restaurant, Popina, witnessed a hail storm just after we got tucked into our table, and went home to squeeze the last gabs out with her before I needed to hit the sack in preperation for my 4:30am wakeup call.
BACK IN PARIS
I arrived to JFK 2.5 hours before my flight on Thursday, and thank GAWD I did. I barely made it onto the plane. The security cue was so backed up that they cut the line in half and shuttled us like cattle down to the basement where TSA was set up (and not prepared) to check 100s of us in. We all stood in line forever before we made it through.
When I finally boarded Delta 0266 and cozied in 55F, I met my seat mate. He was the sweetest young guy heading to Europe for his first time. His name was Alex and he was from Brazil. He was a tennis coach in Manhattan and had a smile that was electric. He perma-grinned the whole flight (when he wasn’t counting sheep!). It was special to witness. I’ve said this before on En Route so forgive me for the repetition… but the saying goes “When you teach a child the word tree, they’ll never see a tree again.” This is how I felt about Alex. He hadn’t yet been spoiled by travel and by the beauty of Europe. He was a virgin .. getting to see it with fresh / new eyes. His elation for his upcoming experience was contagious. And I caught it! I too got very excited to return!
Simon met me at the airport that night to take me home. He had teased during the final days I was in the US that he wanted my flight number so to track that I was actually coming back. When I FaceTimed him just before taking off he looked relieved that I was in my airplane seat. We had a good sweet laugh! Up until then, I think he thought NYC was keeping me.
We have had a sweet few days together: A special dinner at home on the first night back, a bike ride on Friday to Da Lino for my favorite to-go focaccia sandwiches on the canal, a stop by his favorite Italian épicerie, Paìsano, a long Saturday run for moi to his tennis tournament, a mini tennis lesson after together indoors, an incredible and cozy dinner at his brother and sister in law’s beautiful home, and a visit to Château de Bagatelle rose gardens with a homemade picnic and wine.
I have also had a great time seeing friends. After the gardens on Sunday, I made my way through the maze of Olympic barricades to reach bébé Margeaux and Miranda – we went to two parks, strolled about, got lemonades, and caught up on the last three weeks.
As I was biking home, the Olympic roundabouts had me detouring all over the city – way out of the way to chez nous. When I found myself on the other side of the Louver, and about to pop with lemonade (tmi!), I decided to swing by SoHo house to use the loo. As I came out through the common area… you will never guess who was in my direct line of sight! Jesse! My friend, who I met at this very place, last summer. He had texted me months ago with his travel dates to see about meeting up with Simon and me. Yet, as luck would have it, his whole time in Paris… So I thought… I was in the US. WILD! Had I not swung by… we would have missed one another. FLOW. He was about to have his last dinner there, solo. Excitedly, he invited me to join him. I called Simon to see if he’d like to come too – alas, this was an important election night (feels as big as the US felt the first time Trump was elected in 2016. Just an air of uncertainty, confusion, and heaviness is looming in France right now). So, Simon stayed put and Jesse and I caught up for hours and had a ball.
The recurring advice given to me by all of my friends before returning to Paris – was when I land back in France, I need to find my people. Expand my network. Find expats and start making plans to be around them often.
So… I was so happy that the first weekend I was back I accomplished the goal! Not only did I run into my best friend from last summer randomly, I got to see a best friend and her baby, I got quality time with Simon, I got to see new places in Paris (to remember to see the tree not just know the word), AND, I got to plan a trip to Italy to celebrate a dear friend of mine who will be wed there in two weeks. Oh!! And, I received a text from Caroline (my friend who lives in Metz and didn’t know I was back. Connection!) inviting me out to visit her.
I am happy to report that my people found me, I have made plans (Lucca and Florence here I come!), and I have been smiling.
Today marks the first week to my final three months on this visa – the sun is shining, hopes are high, I’m about to hop on James Chocolatine to meet Simon for a football match at a sports bar, I have a date lined up with Selden and Laura (school friend) this week, and my cherry on top… I DON’T HAVE COVID.
Until next En Route… xo ac
Welcome back! ❤️