PARISIAN WAKE UP CALLS
AND CHARLESTONIANS DINNER CONVOS
LIGHTS OUT
Current view. Sitting at Soho house — witnessing person after person calling one another “baby” (which ironically has been a funny joke with Simon and me this past week) — and all sporting stick and poke tattoos. Hummm am I cool enough to be a member here?
I’m at SoHo... Because, well, it’s electric … “BABY!” And since I woke up this morning to NO electricity … in the entire building! Here am I am now — Writing En Route.
The apartment above us (a few floors up thankfully) is having work done. I had already been woken up by an exasperated “Oh my god! Oh my god!” from Simon early this morning. The Boeing debacle had him in an uproar ... something he insisted that he’d fill me in on later — because I “should try to go back to sleep.”
Woooo — living with someone is wonderful AND mismatched at times. Ha! We will get in a rhythm soon, I’m sure. But for now. When you have a lite sleeper - moi… paired with a heavy sleeper - lui. It makes for an interesting recipe of aiming to understand the others way of rest. My sweet Simon could hear a freight train, or have flood lights turned on … disturbing his RIM. Yet promptly after, fall FAST asleep. Moi, on the other hand? When I am woken up. I am UP.
I did, however, take his advice, and try to fall back asleep for an hour at least – afterall tonight was our night out! We were meeting Fanny, Patrick, and Chris for drinks and dinner. More on that later.
I was successful. And yet just as my second-morning-sleep dream was getting really good — I heard the loudest commotion. The workers had gone rouge. They were outside in the courtyard area, just outside of our bedroom, to cut a piece of wood or something very loud. And bam!! Yelling erupted from them as the whole building went DARK. It would have been the PERFECT time to fall asleep. The workers couldn’t work - it would be quiet. And the lights were OUT. Alas… it was getting late and I have MAJOR GUILT sleeping during the day right now. I took this 2nd wake up as my sign to get up.
I attempted to cut on and off all of the fuses. When that didn’t work. I dressed and left the apartment. I arrived to a lit and full of electricity SoHo House — have had about 10 coffees — and am starting to write EN ROUTE with all these BABIES.
I plan to bike back soon and attempt to take a hot shower. I am holding my breath that it will be. Although, you know. Maybe that’s exactly what I need! A freezing shower to shock me WIDE awake!!!!!!!
I’LL SEE YOU AT THE THEATER
Last week I met Elizabeth and Miranda at the Opéra Bastille for Don Quixote. It was INCREDIBLE. It was the most beautiful day so I decided to walk over… the full hour plus that it would take. Which, it turns out, gave me just enough time to listen to some of Queen B’s new album, learn that OJ Simpson had died (pst.. Do we think he’ll leave a note for us confessing that he REALLY DID kill Nicole and finally let us poor souls put it to rest?), and stroll the Seine with every other Parisian looking to soak in some of those scarce (lately) sunshine rays.
Miranda had texted us earlier what she was wearing. To keep with the Spanish theme, she had landed on a floral getup and heels. Elizabeth and my fits were Spanish too. Only the Mobster style. We showed up both sporting full on-suits.
The ballet! The ballet!
The turns, the jumps, the muscles, the costumes, the music, the thrashing of the conductors hair (I was glued on watching this for a lot of the time), the constant song of sniffs sitting beside Miranda, the chorus of grumbles in the audience when someone attempted to take a lit photo (we had been invited with a strict undertone NOT to do this), and finally the intermission champagne and sammie snacks. It was the best treat! I decided then and there. A cultural club was in order. I’m pondering names as I type.
Afterwards, we went to Bofinger for a late dinner and lots of wine.
I miss my friends! I had the best time here and love these two SO much. But nights like this make me pine away for my besties… my belly-laugh friends. They will come here too – as they always do in every new city. I just miss them for now.
RUN INS AND DINE OUTS
Saturday Simon took me to Saint Ouen flea. It was the best thing I’ve ever done in my life. Ok ok… but it was ONE OF the best things I have ever done in my life.
It smelled of the NYC Showroom of Melet Mercantile, it looked like the basement of RRL on West Broadway, it was relaxed like the markets I had just been to in Brussels, and it was structured and designed like ABC Carpet – vignettes for days. HEAVEN.
Simon and I have different tastes on some things. He is ultra modern and I am more of a mix. I love a good very-old piece amongst something designed today. He does too… at times… but it takes a little convincing. We had a ball roaming around for hours. We made our way over to visit his friend at The Duke Shop before we dined on the terrace at HaSalon. His place is truly like another favorite of mine… We Took To The Woods.
Even though he only sold American goods – he didn’t speak a word of English. Wild to me. What he did speak… famed vintage dealers! When I mentioned that I used to work closely with Dough Bihlmaier at Ralph Lauren – he lit up!
After Simon and I tried on umpteen pieces – and decided to forgo them all. (Vintage! You either have to LOVE IT! Or, you have to LEAVE IT. Because if you buy it and don’t love it — you won’t wear it. They are always difficult fits, and usually need a good eye and needle for a mend or two.) We left him behind, went to have lunch, and then after — headed out to another incredible vendor to find Simon a prized vintage Levis Jacket.
When we arrived at HaSalon they had two tables available on the terrace. (and a waiter sleeping in the downstairs restroom area — covered by the velvet hanging drapes. Too good not to snap a shot! His shoes were a dead giveaway!) Simon seemed stressed that we wouldn’t get one. I’m like… “hurry! Someone, give this man a glass of wine and a pair of shades! He’s ready to chilllllll in the sun.” Just as we had indeed made it to the final table outside, and ordered practically everything on the menu, I spotted … wait for it… wait for it… Fanny!
Fanny, my friend who owns Chez Nous, Bin 152, and Malagón in Charleston, was literally propped up outside of the restaurant. As I bolted over to her – poor Simon, I just stood up and started smile-walking over without any “I’ll be right back” – we both started laughing! It was so wonderful to see some of MY PEOPLE. Before we knew it Patrick, Fanny’s husband, and their business partner, Chris, were coming over laughing too. Patrick met me with a “of course we see you here!” (Last summer, we ran into one another several times .. and always unexpectedly.) I introduced Simon to the group — we all hit it off and talked until our lunch was served.
To continue our conversations, we landed on having dinner together this week. Which we did … last night at Chez George. Simon worked his magic and got us a table at our favorite restaurant (we wanted something prized to show them). I was over the moon! We ordered it ALL (including my mama’s favorite… the amaretto soaked prunes) and had the absolute BEST TIME. I have always loved these three in Charleston — and now — I have the pleasure of loving theme here in Paris. We know their every six week schedule to return and plan to get together each time. (They don’t know — but I already have each date penned into my agenda! And Simon is already planning out the menu for us to host them at (our) “Chez Nous.” SO HAPPY.)
We ended our Saturday cooking together — and before that, biking back to our neighborhood through the most perfect private street there ever was (photos below for proof), going for a beer, talking dreams with each other and soaking in this yummy Parisian Spring! All while he was sporting his new Levis digs… j'adore ça!
DAY OF REST
Sunday was the best day! We slept until … dare I even tell all of you judgers? Haha. No, but for real, it was LATE for me anyway. I had a plan to make Simon what he’s been asking for our WHOLE relationship. Pancakes! But since I was still snoozing. We switched. He made us the best lunch and I (to his dismay) made him breakfast for dinner that night. He doesn’t believe in eating breakfast for dinner and has been teasing me since that tomorrow he will serve me steak frites for breakfast — ha! He doesn’t know. That would be my dream! We ate like kings that day.. to me. Comfort food only.
He watched some soccer and I took to the park that afternoon. I have decided lately. When in doubt.. Go OUT. We then went on a very long tour of Paris on our bikes. One of my favorite days so far!
Oh!! And since everything here closes at 1/1:30 (sometimes even 12:30!!!!!) on Sundays. I ran out when I woke up to do my shopping for the “dinner” (breakfast for dinner). With groceries and my lovely violet tulips in tow – I physically ran into Ming! My favorite classmate. He would make me laugh so hard because next to every sentence he would attempt in FRENCH in our class .. He would start by “pardon my anglais.” And then he would proceed in English. Just typing it makes me laugh. I mean.. the whole point of taking French was to SPEAK IN FRENCH. Sweet pea. I am proud to say though - he did just pass his course so he can now apply for another visa that will warrant him the right to work permanently for his Hong Kong company here à Paris. Congratulations my friend!
SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE … OOOP… I MEAN PARIS
Last night was another sleepless night. When. Am. I. Going. To. SLEEP?! I can’t tell if it’s the newness of moving in with Simon, if it’s adjusting to living here in Paris still (I mean… it’s been six months already!! So that shouldn’t be it.), if it’s the drinking lovely wine and/or beers almost every night, if it’s the single skinny cig I treat myself to once (ok… twice) a week, if it’s the Thin Mint Girl Scout cookies that my mother smuggled over (and that Simon and I indulge in ummm every night), if it’s the final episodes of Ozark that we are binging, if it’s the stress of looking for a job (it’s coming. I can feel it!), or if it’s…. Well you name it!
Last night. Simon watched his soccer while I watched our series. He kept popping in … covering his eyes so not to see the scene of Wendy acting the FOOL on the show… for a smooch. We laugh all time together. He is so exasperated - and I get tickled at nearly everything he does. Even without sleep – I wouldn’t trade this time. All smiles when eyes are open – regardless if those eyes I speak of are in the weeeee hours of the morning.
SOLO STROLL AND DINE
Two days ago I spent the day walking – exploring all these new Rues in my new neighborhood - in silence.
I had had the BEST visit with my dear friend Margot the night before. And therefore was still buzzing from the happiness the morning after. So took myself for a walk.
Yes… she is becoming my dear friend. I am hopeful she will be my belly-laughing friend in no-time. I just need to learn her language so I can make jokes! (Still feeling very frustrated at my SLOW progress – but I tell myself it will come.) She suggested I listen to podcasts in French … “like Serial”… hmmm SHE LISTENED TO SERIAL!?? I just love her. Everything about her… each time I get to see her… I am reminded why. She reminds me so so much of my friends in SC and NYC. Has the same interests as us (including this crazy crime solving podcast), loves to shop like us – for cool finds (she and her husband just went to Marrakech where she said the best part was bargaining. I love love love a good negotiation too. She said by the end of her trip she was starting to bargain with vendors for things she didn’t even want – all for the sake of “winning the game.” I love her! We the same!
Anyway… buzzing from our good time still the next morning. I took myself on a LONG stroll in my new neighborhood. I walked for an hour, made a tour of some of my favorite streets, found myself back at Valois, where I sat outside for my solo lunch date with myself, inhaled way too much second hand cigarette smoke from my bookend tables… and ordered the best fish I have nearly ever had. Love days like these.
A WEEK OF … ENDS
I found out just now, while writing EN ROUTE, that my great uncle passed away. I wasn’t close to him per se… but his sister, my Mamee, was my best friend when she was alive and I am close to his children. We all grew up together. They are my mother’s age-ish and therefore older than me. But we all grew up, during my life anyway, across the street from one another every summer. Their beach house was on the beach and ours was on the creek. We started our days on their side with the sunrises, and ended them on ours with the sunsets. Will miss these!
I haven’t really mourned our beach house yet. We just sold it. I think because I’m so far away potentially. Alas, this will do it for me. As I type I feel the tears welling up. It is the end of a chapter for us all now that Alex (pronounced like Alec Baldwin). The close of a book really. It’s over. We will now probably only ever be in close circles (circles that we were used to sitting in for hours upon hours at a time on the South Carolina sands playing “20 questions” while drinking pony neck beers and eating boiled peanuts together) with this side of the family when there is a wedding or a funeral. That's what happens after there is a death. A natural divide happens amongst family when the glue that held us together is gone.
Ironically, I called my (dad’s mama) grandmother this week to check in. Maybe I felt death was near in my family and since she is the eldest of anyone I am blood connected to anymore … I wanted to hear her voice. It was such a sweet visit. She took my call with glee in her voice and then immediately started to GAB. I had heard that she had started to talk A LOT in her later years – but I hadn’t experienced it in a while. Sweet thing! She didn’t stop talking the entire 17 minutes of our call. At the end. The only “question” she directed my way was to say… “I bet this is costing you a fortune to call me, we better hang up, right?” It was a special moment and one I plan to do more often.
And another death..
My dad and I connected this week and he shared that his pet duck, Quacky, passed away. My father hasn’t ever had a pet - as long as I have known him. But he has adopted the golf course's ducks as his own. He lives on hole 14 (I think) and it’s surrounded by a huge lake. One where he met Quacky and Smacky as he calls them. My sweet niece and nephew even call them by name too – they have known them their whole young lives. So sweet! Memories of feeding time with Pops.
My father has grown very attached to these two birds, and them to him. So much so that he goes out of his way to buy sacks (I’m talkin 50lbs) of feed for them. Loaves upon loaves of bread for them. And has them trained that when his door sounds (he has a chime that rings every time the door unlatches) the birds practically bolt-waddle over to his yard. We tease him that it’s Animal Kingdom. He has taken care of them when they were sick and nursed them to health… CLICK here to see a sweet reunion of them after pops had Birds of Prey save Smacky (the girl) a few years ago.
A sad day when Pops shared this news with me that Quacky had died. And a sad Smacky. Another chapter end.
And now even another…
And two nights ago – Simon came into the bedroom with a solemn look. He let me know that he had just gotten word that one of his best friend’s brothers had just committed suicide. Suicide! No one can easily move past a death – and a death that is planned by the one who takes it – it’s another matter. It’s a tragedy on another level. It impacts everything / everyone. Devastation!
He will attend the funeral on Sunday and have an opportunity to spend some time with his sweet parents while close to them. There is light in the dark — when you look for it.
Death comes in threes – at least for me they always have. It makes me sad that these have happened, and yet… In times like these I am reminded to seize the day. Love where I am and who I’m with. Always say yes until I have to say no. And not to ever forget to let things go quickly so that I can return to love in rapid speed.
I am so proud of all of my family who have had loss this week. My father, he sounded sad and yet ready to find another duck companion for Smacky. My Simon, he sounded sad and yet honored that he is able to physically go support his childhood friend on Sunday at the funeral/celebration of his brother’s life. And my mother, she sounded sad and yet is so in love with her cousins (as if they were siblings) that she sounded like she is talking them through all the impossible emotions faced with losing a parent.
Death happens so that there is space for NEW birth. Sarah, one of my closest cousins (who I too was raised to more or less consider a sibling vs a cousin) is expecting a baby girl. New life can only come in when other lives end. It’s unfortunate, and yet it’s the circle of life. Ironically - when my mother called with this news of Alex, she was en route to celebrate Sarah at her baby-shower.
Circle of life continues.
I AM looking forward to this coming weekend and week ahead.
This morning I prepared my infamous (here in Paris) pecan pie for a dinner with Jerome and his wife tonight (two of Simon, and now my, friends). I plan to have tea with Jenni - my friend who writes The Paris Chapter, see Sarah - my sweet deep thinker who I have missed for the past several weeks in the sauna, see Justine for wine - my friend who let my parents stay in her precious ISL apartment, and hopefully sort out what to do with my visa situation… so that I can… S L E E P!
LITTLE RECAP…
This week I went to Marcelle with Miranda, and gushed about bébé Margaux. She is SO BIG and learning / actually.. teaching others how to clap. PRECIOUS!
I also was able to solve an issue for Simon and moi. Felt amazing to accomplish a problem. (We heard back from our hotel in Napoli. Simon, for my birthday, was treating me to a few days away there. Yet, as it got closer to the date, I was the one who suggested that we postpone. He is drowning in work, and I was still getting settled. I didn’t want us to add stress.)
So… while we were at the flea this weekend he received a call from Italy. When he listened to the vm he realized that he had forgotten to cancel the reservation. Eeeeeek. Unfortunately … but in this case… fortunately… He has been having foot trouble again (poor thing. Loves to make sport and yet lately, everytime he does… he suffers. No matter what. Runs. Tennis. Biking.) He thankfully had two appointments that had sandwiched the weekend with his doctors - on Friday and Monday. I was able to send an explanatory mail with these proof of appointments … ask the hotel to please consider applying what we have already paid towards another extended stay at their beautiful hotel … at another time. GREENLIGHT!!! Given the circumstances, my way of writing (something I learned how to do by way of working for Laura Pelzer. MASTER at responses and getting what she needs/wants to happen through the almighty written word), sending the proof, and explaining that since I too have been raised in a family business … I relate to them on having to understand the importance of company policies in addition to making clients happy. So would appreciate whatever they could for us. And ummmmmmm THEY DID!
I shocked Simon that I got us our nights back. He was so proud of me … and I was too! It was great for me to remember what I’m great at – and why I’m always hired - To solve issues!! They responded back that they are practically over the moon to have us once Simon “recovers.”
Simon and I will be packing our bags in the coming months.
SPEAKING OF… in the coming months we are also planning to leave our apartment for three ish weeks during the Olympic Games. We don’t need to rent the place. But we know that hotels and other apartments are booked already for this time. Therefore – if there are any of you who are coming over or know of anyone coming over for the games and are looking for a place… Email me. We would only want to rent our space to people we know/love or those people who know/love our people.
It’s truly the most precious apartment in the best area.
Ok off now to enjoy these few hours of sunshine. Until next EN ROUTE… xxo ac
I loved reading this Anne Caroline. What a great adventure! I can't wait to follow you.