QR CODES, SILENCE, and MY PRIVATE ÎLE
... CALM BEFORE THE OLYMIC STORM
CHECKING IN
As of July 18th I had to start “checking-in” with security, with my QR code, before I could enter the protected area of Île Saint Louis (where I have taken residence the past 10 days). And um, if you’re wondering? Nope… I’m not mad about it! It’s been a dream! A private island in the midst of all the Olympic mayhem. Yes please!
[Ok… Let me backup. My visa is almost up and before I go, or stay, I want to explore other areas in Paris. So, when this idea came to me several weeks ago, I reached out to all of my friends to see if their places were available to rent for a few weeks at a time over the summer. Justine was the first to respond. Her place was wide open for about 10 days. So, I jumped on the opportunity to come nest in her beautiful pied-à-terre for a bit and rediscover this precious, petite, now private, island.
NOT actually realizing what a true gift it would end up being for me. And how deeply I would connect with this place given the lack of commotion with the upcoming Olympics. Since the Island is nestled in the center of the Seine, and since the entire world will be watching the Opening Ceremony tomorrow night taking place on the Seine, security went into full on protection / lock-down mode here. And therefore also, full on silent / bliss mode for those of us who call this home (even for a short time). It has been an absolute dream and the perfect reprieve from the city life … while being able to stay IN the city! Utopia.]
And now, with my trusty (and coveted by every other person in Paris — Parisian and tourist alike) QR code, that grants me access to both Islands, in hand… I feel like a local. Actually, maybe I AM ONE! Oh, you just wait for it!
It’s been a quiet, calm, no tourist, pure paradise since July 18th. Even the actual number of locals from the island have been cut in half. Noone is here. No restaurant is open (which is actually pretty tragic for some), no ice cream queue bleeding onto the streets until 1am (bliss), no dog mess anywhere (dream), no passing traffic on our precious pedestrian (and nightly theater/concert) bridge (hallelujah). Therefore, those of us who are here, have it all to ourselves. Us lucky few … Île Saint Louisans.
No one (literally, as you’ll see in the picture above) is here.
The sad (and happy because I’m going somewhere great!) news, is that I’ll actually miss the Opening Ceremony tomorrow that has given us this island fairyland confinement. When I return, it may be back to business as usual… and this incredible last week will just be a found memory for us all who had the pleasure of living here during this time.
JUST ME AND MY DAME
As I walked out of the apartment last Friday, I decided to stroll a different direction than I usually do, and go visit the Notre Dame.
The morning was extremely still… almost eerie. It wasn’t too late (maybe 9ish) and yet it felt as if no one had woken up yet. The closer I got to the Cathedral, the more I realized how lucky I was to have this quiet experience.
Then, as I was in front of her, I realized this wasn’t just a quiet experience, it was actually a once in a lifetime experience! For a solid 20 minutes (I kid you not) I sat in utter silence as I had the entire bleachers overlooking the restoration all to myself. It gives me chills just writing it. How could I have earned this gift in life? Pinch me!
As I spied just beyond me, there were lines upon lines of people on the other side of the barricades trying to negotiate their way closer to Our Lady. And here, I, the luckiest girl, had her all to myself!
Before I left, I took it in for one more minute – in the case that tomorrow would be different and I wouldn’t get access with her. I’m happy to report, that wasn’t the case. I have had access and continue to go visit her every morning. Just her, me, and the pigeons (of course, the pigeons!).
ALWAYS SAY YES … UNTIL YOU HAVE TO SAY NO
I’m sure I’ve shared this nugget with you all before. Alas, if you’re new to EN ROUTE, here it goes (again). Way back when I used to call the Lower East Side home, my dear friend, Fiona, and I were finishing up one of my birthday soirées at my watering hole, The Ludlow, when I started sharing with her my upcoming year goals. When I mentioned a fear associated with one of my goals she offered up these words of advice: “Always say yes, until you have to say no.” Basically … just do it!
I thought it was genius then and I still think that today. I apply it often in my life. In fact, I did it three … maybe even four times this week alone! Don’t worry, I’ve written them in detail below for your pleasure.
The first one I’ll share with you happened on Tuesday night. And ummmm, I’m still buzzing from it! It has officially been the highlight of my week – and that’s saying a lot because I’ve had TONS of highlights this week thanks to my incredible friends.
Happy reading…
INVITATION
Tuesday night, as I was perched on what has become my regular nightly seat – the bench at the very tip of Île Saint Louis – I got an invitation to a party!
Let me set the stage for you. I was there, minding my own business, and indulging in my new evening tradition of having a demi bière et skinny cigarette on the bench over looking where the Seine comes together at the point of the Île, when I was spotted. Denis, my neighbor (unbeknownst to me at the time), scooted by me with another couple and asked “Es tu là pour la fête?” (are you here for the party?) “Hum, quelle fête?!” (what party?) I asked. He pointed and explained what he had organized here on the Island: A monthly picnic rendezvous on the Seine, open to all (true) ÎSL residents. Yet, since the Olympics have us pinned in (more on that later) these monthly fêtes have become more of weekly / nightly celebration.
Before I knew it, Denis added me and my other new neighbor (unbeknownst to me also at the time), Charles, who happened to be standing in ear shot of this conversation, to the Île Saint Louis Soirée WhatsApp group.
I’m a local! FINALLY! (or faking to be one anyway. And in a very convincing way evidentially!)
I mean, I was about to be wildly uncomfortable. But “always say yes,” eh?
Before I went down to the river, I drank most of my pony-neck beer on my bench. I may have said “yes,” but I still needed a little liquid courage to crank up the bravery volume. And the second I had it all the way turnt up, I made my way around the party only speaking in french, introducing myself to everyone. They were SO kind to me. They all laughed and smiled at me each time I answered a question or asked one S L O W L Y. And they would sometimes (although, really they kept it in French) speak to me in English. We all practiced our foreign tongue.
I came out of that experience feeling so proud of myself for going. I hadn’t known a soul there (although, Valèrie and I became fast friends. She was my favorite! And I’m happy to report that she started a side text with just me, outside of the WhatsApp group. Dare I say… we are sparking up a “local” friendship?). I don’t yet fully speak the language so that could have intimidated me not to go (but I did anyway!) and I hadn’t brought anything as a donation for the soirée since I learned about it when I was, well, already THERE (so I came empty handed, which isn’t a look I do often), but I went anyway.
Instead, I just held my basically empty beer bottle (so that my hands were occupied) and did my best to keep up with all the conversations. When I decided that I had “to say no” to the freezing temperature (it had dropped down to 56° that night — crazy cold) and go home… They all kissed me farewell and insisted that I attend every monthly picnic moving forward. Regardless if I live on the Île, ou pas.
Excusez-moi?! Am I in the local IN crowd!!!!? I think so!!! Eeeeep.
Crazy enough – Justine’s apartment building is ON the Seine – the side where the Opening Ceremony will be tomorrow. And although I can’t see the river exactly without straining my eyes and giving some serious, could be considered inappropriate, obvious stares through my neighbor’s window across the courtyard, everyone at the soirée last night was gunning hard to get an invite over to the apartment on Friday to see the big show. French. No shame!
Another “say YES” moment …
Last Wednesday night I wasn't feeling my 100% self, and yet I knew that I had already committed to a social engagement. I needed to show up. Because well, it wasn’t just any social engagement. It was being held for MOI.
My sweet French-School friend, Laura — who I met on the first day of class back in March when Pia, our mask-wearing teacher (Urg!! Remember her?!), paired us up to “get to know one another.” We did, and have been dear friends ever since — and I got together a few weeks ago. I was expressing how much I needed to find my own group here. I needed to find expats to relate to if I was ever going to survive this French city. She heard me loud and clear and took no time in arranging a table for us at La Perchoir Ménilmontant where she had invited ALL of her incredible expat friends just pour moi. Precious! And since it was for me — it was mandatory that I “say yes” to this.
I ended up having a ball! And meeting the coolest ladies, who have lived all over the world. So, you get it? “Always say yes until you have to say no!” That evening, that I didn’t initially feel up for attending, completely brought me back to life.
And, at this soirée, I met Leah – one of the ladies who I loved the most there. She learned that I was actively still learning French and that I was a cinema fanatic. Put the two together?! Yep! You know what’s comin. A French movie date. She invited me to join her for the French screening of Le Comte de Monte-Cristo on Monday afternoon with, wait for it, only French subtitles. I was ALL OVER THAT! I had been dying to see that movie since Simon and I saw the trailer way back when we went to (the terrible, horrible, no good, very bad film,) Challengers.
Alas, when Leah explained that it would have subtitles so that the deaf could see the film and read along, I somehow concluded that the film then must be, well, “silent” right?
Oh god! What did I just say “yes” to? Was this a time to “...have to say no?”
Eh! C’est la vie! I want friends. She was a top contender AND she had invited me to one of her favorite activities, which happened to also be mine – the movies. We were hitting it off already. I didn’t want to spoil my chances. So, I thought, the least I could do is go sit still for 3 hours (!!!!), in a dark theater (!!!!), without sound (!!!!), and attempt to speed read (!!!!!) a new language I’m learning so I can have a friend.
Mais, thank GAWD I was wrong!
When we found our seats in a nearly empty theater (my favorite kind of theater), the lights dimmed and the trailers began. I leaned over to my new (still holding my breath, but I think we are) friend and said “Wow! I’m surprised they have the trailers playing with sound.” I’m squeal-laughing as I type this nonsense. She looked at me a bit confused but brushed it off (I’m thinking she was also trying to win my friendship over.) When the movie started and the sound continued to pump out of the speakers at full volume. I started laughing so hard and had to confess... “I thought you were bringing me to a silent film.” She bursted into a cackle that she texted later was still carrying on into the evening. She then genuinely thanked me for saying “yes” even though I thought I was attending - what would have been an awkward - silent film with practically a stranger (although, after this, I think we’re on the brink of a golden friendship thank you very much!), for three hours.
I’m proud to say that we both understood everything (I give a lot of credit to her mini-overview before we walked in. She had read the history of Monte Cristo the night before). Well, everything that is, until the very end when we both didn’t understand why they needed a trial before getting on the boat, and who actually got the boat? And why did the son kill his dad etc. etc. Ok ok, you’ve got us! Maybe saying that we understood everything was a bit of a stretch. But, we understood some. How about that?! Better!??
Ariel, another American (whom I’m hoping also becomes a friend) who I met the same expat night, decided to join us for lunch before our movie. Since we were in the hood, I suggested that we meet at my favorite pizzeria in Paris, Il Brigante. We had a ball! And they loved the pies.
WEEKEND WANDERS
This past weekend I got lost on the left bank. I wandered and weaved through the streets until I had no idea how to get back to my safety QR code zone. And even though some would say I was lost, I was playing a game with myself. I forbid myself to look at my phone for help. When I finally turned a corner and spotted Jardin du Luxembourg I was so proud of myself. I had used my internal compass to find my way back closer to my home-base, and in doing so, I realized that Paris is indeed becoming smaller and smaller to me by the day. (Just as New York did for me way back when. One day everything just started to shrink, to make sense, and I finally started to get the hang of where I was in my city. I’m doing the same thing here, now.)
During my trek, I passed a dog with dreads (probably immensely smelly!), a vintage market (devastated because I wanted it all and it was the one day I chose not to bring cash!), and ate at La Palette (where the waiter mistook my nervous eye winks when I messed up on French words as a come-on. He gave me his number after I paid. So sweet. But a little awkward when I had “to say no” and tell him S L O W L Y (because I wanted to ensure I didn’t do any more mess-up eye-winks) in French that I was flattered, yet, not available.), and stroll home the long way – on purpose this time!
On Sunday, I got to gab for an hour with one of my NYC besties, Erica, and then I biked over to Café Père Tanguy, where I sat on my sweet Margot’s lap (code for lady talk / sharing all the things) for hours while we each drank 2 demi-bières and smoked about a pack of cigs. Until this evening, we had only been sending vintage jewelry pictures back and forth since about May – so we had LOTS to catch up on. And our visit filled my tank! We laughed, cried, and shared all the news. She shared about upcoming vacation plans with her sweet family of four, she told me that Henri took his first steps (!!!) and what a precious proud big sister Sasha is being with him. This afternoon was an upgrade.
And, to rewind. Before the weekend really kicked off. On Friday, I went to the hardest work out class of … well, Selden’s life. Ha! It should have been the hardest of mine too. Alas, I confessed to her and her beau, Thomas, over drinks that evening that when our coach calls out “speed 20” for the treadmill – I ONLY ever go to “speed 11.” When I admitted that, I thought Selden was going to spit up her yellow Ricard because she was laughing so hard. She exclaimed, “That’s half the speed AC!” Haha! I’m like, “Yeah, I know. But look who’s not thinking that class was SO hard?! And who got to laugh throughout it?!” We giggled for hours about that. And, this is a prime example of when I “have to say no!” “No” to fast treadmills. I’ll fly off of it.
We carried our laughs about this into our next rendezvous at La Retraite, where we met up with some of their friends. (A few of her main squeezes, Ally and Amy, did the “hardest” class with us that day too and got a kick out of my “half effort enjoyment” of it.)
Before we biked over to meet them, I was having to remind myself to “always say yes until you have to say no” because I didn’t want to go. I typically don't like changing locations. And if you know me best, you know that when we do change locations – I will Irish exit in a heartbeat once I’m at the second place. So, when Selden said we were switching it up. My immediate response was “No. Y'all go. I’m going to head home.” Selden wouldn't hear of it! She looked me square in the eyes and said “Oh, no. You’re coming with us, lady!”
I have the greatest friends! Because, had she not insisted, I would have missed out on seeing Dale! Wait for it…
Wild enough, I met Dale several months ago, at one of Jen’s dinner parties that we were both invited to. We sat together and had a riot! Jen is a friend of Dale and mine… and someone who Selden doesn’t know yet. Alas, Selden and Dale are friends!!! As I said earlier in this EN ROUTE, Paris is becoming smaller and smaller for me. Case in point. This situation marks my very first friend overlap moment. What a joy! Paris is becoming my city.
And, on top of this, I had just seen Jen the day before, for coffee at Merci, so I found it all the more ironic to run into him and his precious partner, Nat, that night of all nights.
So, to recap… “Always say YES”…
MOVE OVER GIGI
As of yesterday morning I’m officially the newest Team USA model. Psych!!!
I mean maybe I am though… last week MIRTH, this week MAÄT?! It appears that I’m comin for ya, Gigi!
No, but for real. I did model again as a favor this time for one of my best friends, Fiona (same Fiona who had bestowed those “always say yes” words on me years ago). She has an incredible new yoga pant line, MAÄT, and needed some Olympic photos. I was happy to oblige!
I woke up at the crack of dawn, hopped on James Chocolatine, busted through the barricades (by busting, I mean actually coming to a complete stop, smiling, saying bonjour to the 100 cops who were just standing around waiting on someone, anyone, to start moving in the neighborhood so that they could scan QR codes and pass the time) and got to the colorful Olympic rings just in time. The Paris Jump Rope Club (literally this is really what they were!) had just finished taking all the photos they wanted in front of them, so I queued up. My turn! I recruited two young girls (who I figured probably knew a thing or two about a thing or two when it came to seeing through the social media lens when taking pictures). I trusted their input, and some 15 photos later of me, they said. “I think we got it!” They did indeed. Pros!
I’ve sent them all off to Fiona for edit and review. So, stand by for my MAÄT insta debut on Friday! After that, Gigi. For real, I think I’ll need to ask you to move aside.
Off now to catch my 1:45pm train to Bordeaux. (What?! I know it’s 11:30ish, but it’s going to take me forever to get to the station with this traffic / closed streets / closed metro stops, etc.) From there I’ll be reunited with Caroline, my precious French bestie (and muse). We’ll rent a car, drive to Seignosse to catch the sunset and make that our home for the next three nights. After, we’ll be EN ROUTE to Biarritz for some beach, yoga, hikes, pilates, massages, and fancy coffees on La Terrasse de Hôtel du Palais Biarritz, my favorite view!
Until next week – Xxo ac