THE UPGRADES CONTINUE...
... AND SO DOES THE SEARCH!
GOLDEN OLYMPIC MOMENTS
Saturday, when I walked into the Parc des Princes stadium, I had a good boo hoo. You guessed it! Not only were my tears for the outpour of pride being an American (note the all-denim very USA ‘fit pictured below!) but because.... I got the Heaven in the 6th apartment!!
Ok ok… I didn’t GET it … get it (Sigh. The hunt is STILL on), but I did get the opportunity to rent it for one full week at the end of this month. So that’s an UPGRADE!
Cyrine, my angel from last week, who I was hoping would be my landlady, texted just as I was walking into join my friends and root root root for USA to take home the GOLD. Her message went something like this: “AC! I hate you didn’t get my apartment (I’m like ummmmm then GIVE IT TO ME and DON’T “hate it”!) But, if you’re in a pinch, I will be happy to rent it to you for the week of Aug 24-30th.”
It took 2 seconds for me to respond … “I’ll take it!” Finally! One solid week in my very own pied-à-terre without feeling like a nomad. So thrilled!
The emotions continued to pour out this day. Only they were coming in the form of nervous laughter and eeeeek yelling for Brazil at times. I couldn’t help it. I wanted BOTH countries to win. I caught a few side-eye-glares from my fellow American fans when I would get overly excited and join the Brazilians in their chants. Ooops!
As you all already know from the last EN ROUTE – the Olympics have given me an UPGRADE of a lifetime. They have been the happiest distraction from what has been a stressful two weeks – searching for an apartment. I’ve had friends in town – calling to the stage… Maximilian (my friend from this EN ROUTE) and Blake (my friend from summer school). I got to see Paris friends … Leah, Ariel, Kelsey, Elodie, and Emily. And, I got to live in the same city for a period of time with ALL of the TOP ATHLETES in the entire world (excluding Russia of course …rightfully so.) UPGRADE!
AND… when I was leaving the stadium on Saturday – after I finally unglued my eyes from Tom Cruise! Yes! That’s right. He was there rooting for the US Women to win the GOLD, like moi! – I saw a Clemson University hat. My (USC) alma mater’s rival! I haven’t seen this tiger paw in years so I did what any person would do when they’re 1000s of miles from home and feel there might be a chance to make the world smaller. I played the name game.
I learned that David (the guy wearing the hat) played football at Clemson with my cousin’s husband. World = TINY. When I sent the photo of us to my entire family with “Look who I’m at the Olympics with. Also… Is this what I missed all those years ago at USC when I didn’t step foot into the stadium?! If so… what was I thinking? I’m hooked on this adrenaline!”
Corbin, my cousin’s husband, and past extraordinary kicker for Clemson, responded immediately. “Annie! Let me be the first to welcome you to the exhilarating WORLD OF SPORTS!”
I’ve never followed along with teams, or known what ball season we’re in, or been the one at the tailgate, or bar, who’s excited for the halftime show to end and the game continue. But after the Olympics — I’m happy to report. Those days are OVER! I’m dusting off my foam finger and ready for ALL live games!
France and USA were playing for the Men’s Basketball GOLD that night too — so I biked over to the Chase Lounge to watch it and to enjoy the final fête on that all you can eat… American-members-only …boat. (To be clear — French could come aboard, alas in this country no-one is offered a credit card. Everyone just uses their debits. So, until we extend the invitation to disguise ‘earning points’ with piling up beaucoup of debt — they can’t join us card swiping nuts on this parked yatch in the Seine.)
There, my new friends and I helped Leah use up her ample “drink tokens” that she had accumulated throughout the week. And when I went to the bar to cash them out… I, in French, told our waitress 1. how beautiful she was… and 2. how sorry I was for her having to serve all of these demanding sweaty Americans. She loved my compliment so much that she snuck me (no token needed when you’re in the staff’s pocket, eh) a raspberry daiquiri that she insisted I had to try. I slurped down before she could warn me “attention! it’s strong!” Too late! That night, instead of the boat’s movements making me feel like I was drunk… I actually, well, was!
En route home, I biked against the crowd watching the Marathoners. First time that the Olympics has ever done this, I learned. Letting real-people run the Olympic Marathon course at night. Genius! The energy was electric. So, James Chocolatine and I came to a halt and gave her bell a good, and steady, ring cheering them on!
Sunday I met Emily for coffee in our hood (What? At that point I had been there for 10 nights.. I think it’s fair to call it mine) at Bel Horizon Coffee Roasters. We gabbed for hours about how she got here, her budding relationship, her new apartment, and my plan for the day – to adorn Miranda and Nico’s apartment with so many goodies as a thank you for them letting me stay at their beautiful home.
That evening, I received another invitation. Justine invited me to join her, her boyfriend, Will, and their friends to watch the Closing Ceremonies at Will’s HUGE apartment / art studio. It was lovely! Oh, and so was the show!
INVITES
This week – unbeknownst to many of my US friends that I’m (temporarily) without a permanent home – I have received SO MANY unexpected invites. It’s as if they all know I am making a go at becoming a professional couch surfer.
Jane wants me in Richmond, Bess (old colleague and great friend from Amex) texted that she misses me, and wanted to remind me that I have a guest room in her NYC apt with my name on it (and my own bathroom, she added. Ha), Sunny texted that she’s in need for an AC visit in Montauk, and then out of nowhere I hear from my sweet friend Lori. She visits me in Paris every Fashion Week. And on Wednesday, she asked if she could crash with me when she comes next month. I responded “But I was planning on crashing with you that week!” as a joke. We had a good laugh as I explained that I don’t have a place for her to stay at the moment — because I don’t even have a place to stay.
Within seconds of voice-texting her about my situation, she said… “You’re coming with Luis and me to Tuscany, then. No questions about it! He will call you tomorrow to make arrangements.” Invite UPGRADE!
I share all of this to say. I just feel so loved. Everyone wants a side of ACB on their summer-plans plate. What a gift!
AND THE SEARCH FOR A HOME CONTINUES
Monday morning I woke up at the crack of dawn to go view two more subpar apartments close to the Odeon. I spent 30 minutes in the under 20m2 apartment (ahhhhh!! Is this even real?!) trying to really imagine if I could make this tiny spot my itty bitty paradise. (The verdict came to me in lightning speed. I can’t!)
From there, I biked over to Selden and Thomas’s hood (my saints who let me stay at their precious apt for two nights while they’re on holiday). I parked James Chocolatine and was walking back to the 15th. (Sidebar — Moving from place to place... I have learned the key process. I bike to said NEW place, first. I park my bike so that I can have her there when I arrive to said NEW place. I walk back to wherever I am lucky enough to be staying at the moment, gather my things, and then schlep my bag to said NEW place. I have it down to a science now.)
So, you’ll never guess! As I was walking down Rue du Louvre (a street I am NEVER on), I got my first major UPGRADE of the week. I physically ran into … FANNY!
May I remind us all. Fanny, is my ultimate French muse who I met in Charleston over the first week I had moved there. She lives part time in Le Marais and part time in Charleston with her American husband, Patrick. I am homeless - so I live everywhere and nowhere. So to run into one another ummmmmm where neither of us live or are EVER!!!! Do I need to say it? FLOW!
She was waiting for Irasshai - a new Japanese grocery store she had discovered - to open. So, with time to spare, she invited me for a coffee across the street. For the next two hours we shared about all that had gone on with each of us since we last saw one another in April. The 2hrs felt like 20 mins, tops! UPGRADE of a morning.
Before I left her, she threw up her bicep and kissed it. She then winked at me! Such a feisty French way of expressing… “You’ve got this! So, go kick the shit out of Plan B!”
After my UPGRADE of a rendezvous, I returned to my favorite bed and breakfast of all time. It goes by the name of Chez Miranda & Nico’s. They have both been so sweet and generous with me. So, as a token of my appreciation I wanted them to come home to the cleanest apartment (check! Even deep-cleaned their fridge. I know I know.. But remember – I used to be called a maniac when it came to my cleanliness), I stocked their fridge with tons of goodies from their favorite grocery store, I folded the rest of their clean sheets, towels, and laundry. I arranged a bouquet of flowers, redid their window boxes for the summer, and cleaned all the rooms. Eeep. I could hardly wait for them to get home to their beautiful apartment after their busy vacation with a walking (and swimming now, I might add) boodle, Margaux.
(If you’re wondering. On my walk to my ‘said NEW place,’ I got a call from Miranda with a glee in her voice that I wish I had recorded. She sounded so pleased (especially her organized Tupperware drawer!))
En route to Chez Selden, I connected with her best friend, Hailey, about how to get the key. Hailey is in town for a while, and therefore also crashing at Selden’s apartment. (And, we remembered that Hailey and I also were a part of the SAME “share house” one summer in Amagansett. World = TINY. Blast from the past!)
We had been alerted that morning that there was a heat advisory in the city. (What in the wild fill in the blank??!! I had been waiting for warmth for MONTHS and yet today? Today… when I have to schlep my things across the city. Today… Paris wants to turn up the temp? C'est la vie!) I was DRENCHED within seconds of being outside. So, I ducked in an alley after winning (or I would have won) the wet tee-shirt contest. (Note to self. When there’s a likely chance to sweat, wear a bra! I had unwanted stares for days until…) I quickly changed into my sports bra. Removing, and wringing out my soaking wet white, translucent at this point, Haynes Tee – I felt so much better!
When I arrived, I drop my bags and then hopped on James Chocolatine. I was in desperate need for a sauna and shower at SoHo. There, I struck up a conversation with a precious French girl in the locker room. She had lived in NYC and had experienced the same struggle in finding an apartment in a foreign country. She put me in touch with her best friend who happens to be subletting her room starting in September. I feel so lucky to be given all of these possible opportunities – and yet, also feel like bursting into tears at any minute. A roommate? Is that where I am again?!!
After I was back to life from my refresh — I met Hailey at Le Café Noir where she shared lots over our many glasses of wine, then beers, then maybe some Ricard, and possibly a shot with the bartenders for good measure (and old times sake!). She is such a free spirit and ironically doesn’t have a home either at the moment. She says it’s “freedom”not to. WOW! What a different perspectives. She feels freedom where I crave stability in that department. Feels like I’m trying to swim upstream in the same water that she’s floating in her lazy river!!!!
I had a ball smoking skinny cigs, drinking, laughing about all the books she’s writing (they’re hilarious), hearing about her time on stage, and not think about me. At ALL!
Wow… now that I think about it, it was fun to have a roomie. Maybe I could do it. (Eh, nah. Those few nights were just right ;)).
The hottest day, without air conditioner, requires windows to be open fully. It is necessary to catch whatever breeze you can so not to rot (a word I have picked up from Hailey) fully. So, both nights at Chez Selden’s - on the couch - windows were wide open. And therefore, I heard it all! If it wasn’t a homeless man screaming at the invisible person he thought he was seeing, then it was the drunk girls giggling while they tripped on their heels, or it was the dump truck stopping and going, or the trash truck banging cans around, or of course… the ample speeding scooters. I mean you name it… I heard it! (let me be clear. I may have heard it all… but I am also still wildly thankful to have had a safe place to snuggle down with four walls. I’m just saying, it was just loud.)
I tossed and turned until day broke when I hopped out of bed, went for a long run to energize, and met Miranda and Margaux for lunch. It was so nice to visit with my girls and smooch on the cutests little ballerina (I mean, look at that point she’s got gonin’ on!) there ever was before I biked to another angel who was lending me her home while she was away for three nights, Leah.
Hailey’s boyfriend flew in from NYC on my second/and last night at Selden’s. While we were visiting he got word that his photos from a dinosaur dig in Utah had been published in National Geographic! That’s what I call… DINOmite!
THE WEEK GOES ON AND HUNT CONTINUES
Wednesday was another early wakeup call. Due to another all-you-can-hear-buffett with the windows open. I was up and out with the sun. I packed my bags again and took them over to KB coffee shop first for a quick pick-me-up chai, and an impromptu gab with a bestie… Erika from America… all before I entered my Heaven in the 9th, Chez Leah.
I dropped my things, pinched myself that I got to call this HOME for a few nights – it’s GORGEOUS – changed, met up with James Chocolatine, my precious bike, and then took her over to Merci where I bought gifts for my host. I invited Justine and her dog, Noodle, to meet me for lunch after, on the Seine. Since EVERY place is closed (Welcome to France in August!) I got us sandwiches from Le Boulanger de la Tour. (Justine has generously offered to keep all of my things (aside from the carryon that I’ve been living out of since Caroline and my beach trip three weeks ago) safe at her studio until I find a new place to call my own. I am grateful to the nth degree! Therefore ANY chance I get… I am treating her.)
Once lunch was over, and after she sent me all of these websites to research with apartments by owners: PARIS ATTITUDE, LODGIS, PARIS HOME, PARIS HOUSING, PAP, PARIS HABITAT – I popped over to another apartment appointment, where I could have eaten Jean-Marie. He was the cutest, most cheerful Frenchman who owned the apartment I was viewing.
The location was everything – in the 6th, huge, and ummmm filthy. (I mean, is it too much to ask to put a little elbow grease into the place before you show it? Please and thank you!) I didn’t feel it was mine. And, I have decided that for my next place, I have to walk in and feel I’m at home. C’est forcément.
When I returned to Leah’s, I got busy researching all the sites. I must have sent 25 emails in an hour to different owners! (If you’re wondering, I heard back from ummmm three. C’est la apartment hunt vie, eh?!) Then, I let myself lay face down on Leah’s bed for 10 minutes (exhausted from two no-sleep nights).
I trust with all my heart that what is meant to be mine, will be! It’s inevitable. A home will come for me.
[Which leads me to… this sidebar. On Thursday night I logged on to Dr. Joe Dispenza’s live stream from the Dallas retreat. I got hooked many years ago on his work when Vanessa (my witch guru friend masseuse) and Sarah (my other witch guru friend, pas masseuse) in Charleston told me that I need to know him. Boy were they right! His studies are incredible. (Oh! And actually, even Paul, Simon’s best friend’s Benjamin’s wife, who I met over here in Paris, and I, connected on Dr. Joe’s work the first night we met. She had also attended one of his week-long meditation workshops as I had. And got the ultimate UPGRADE as I had too.) During this live stream he showed one of my FAVORITE studies. The science of calling in what you want solely with your intention and change of heart/energy. Warning – once you see it your mind will be changed forever. In the most upgraded way possible! Oh! And bringing it full circle, the study was by a FRENCH scientist in ummmm my birth year, 1986. I’m just sayin. You can also watch this longer version of explanation in english.) So - there IS a possibility for the perfect home to come to ME! I just have to call it in.]
After a short freshen up I went outside, drank my nightly demi beer, and then scurried off to meet my dinner dates at Ose (by the way – drop what you’re doing and go there NOW. It was so good!) – Patrick and Fanny.
We had a BALL. Fanny bragged on Patrick about how great he had done in his French citizenship interview in DC a few months ago – only speaking French. Patrick bragged on Fanny about how much she’s taking on with their new bar, La Bonbonette, opening soon in Le Marais. And I didn’t have anything to brag. So, I shared with them about my run-in with Mike Lata (famed Charleston chef) the last time I was in SC.
We had a big laugh when I told them that I nearly begged Mike to pop in to his (closed for those two days I was in town… urrrrg) The Ordinary kitchen and just give me even a spoonful of his fish pâte to satiate my craving. They laughed so hard .. and just like that… Fanny bestowed her second UPGRADE of the week to me. “Mike gave me the recipe long ago! I’ll send it to you tonight!!” I can see it now! Soon I’ll be serving up this dish at my first soirée… in my new home.
IN OTHER NEWS
And in other news… throughout the week I have received so many texts and emails from my friends about MIRTH. Evidently, your girl, ACB, is not only the video cover girl on their homepage, but also the first photo on their email newsletter, and all over their instagram. I am honored!! What a very fun shoot that was! Sneak peek below…
MENTON… HERE I COME
Off to Menton tomorrow with Vivian, who is in town by way of NYC. We will hitch the first train out of town to go meet our Tulum chicas waiting for us there. Three of my best friends on the planet… who are more like family… in one place.
Before COVID, they all made the pilgrimage to see me in Charleston. This will be the first time we’re all together again (missing Fiona!!!!!!) since. They better get ready! I plan to hold on tight and laugh until my stomach hurts.
Meet the girls…
I met Coni when we were both living in Montauk in 2010 and working for Bob Melet. We fell in love with her and she claims that I brought her back to life after her fresh breakup (as she’s done for me on countless occasions). I said YES to everything that summer and MADE her come along for the ride. We became best friends with Luis B. from Tacombi (who is still one of our best friends - and Lori’s other half who’s invited me to Tuscany), we would go to fancy famous-people parties at Ben Watts’s home …doing our best to fit in, we would spend tons of time at by then boyfriend’s beautiful summerhouse in Hither Hills, we would spa at Gurny’s, we would make dinner together almost nightly, and we would slumber together at either her or my house. We’d meet at Ditch Plains before work to watch the surfers and drink maté together. And every year since (until Covid happened), I would fly down to Tulum to relive our time together.
The following summer is when I met Franci (who’s Italian, yet, too lives in Tulum and is Coni’s best friend), Fiona (who too worked for Melet some and our personal yoga guru teacher), and Viv (our lady boss who ran the Crows Nest at that time). Coni, that summer, 2011, met the other Luis at Tacombi and fell in love.
We have shared in the best memories – Coni and Luis’s wedding in Holbox, where we were all in attendance… the birth of their daughter Elana, and then of Franci’s son, Fili. We have celebrated Vivian on her change in career and becoming the top photo producer of all major campaigns. We have all been Fiona’s model for her yoga brand, MAÄT, and they have all rooted me on as I have made the moves from NYC to Charleston … and now to Paris.
We are sisters more than friends and I feel blessed beyond belief that I will have them with me tomorrow for a full two nights and three days. I love these girls to the moon and back! (I was even with them when my best friend Jane got engaged… so… they have been there for so many happy moments in my life.)
I am counting down for more happy memories in a few short hours!
Until next week, PLEASE, when you think of me, close your eyes and envision moi in a quiet, beautiful, sunlit, peaceful apartment … smiling. And when you do this, get your energy HIGH and feel like I’m there! I would be so thankful for this.
Xxo
PS: Also, a few more UPGRADES this week: 1. I biked home one night with red roses in my hand - I guess I looked chic, or I really like to think famous …maybe?, because everyone was asking if they could take my picture as I passed. UPGRADE! 2. When USA won the GOLD at the Women’s Soccer game they played “Sweet Caroline” (a song that I taught Sunny, when she was a boodle, that it was really Sweet ANNE Caroline — she was impressed back then that Neil Diamond would have written a song about moi — and still believes it! Precious! They followed that song with “Don’t Stop Believing” — Sunny also loved this song as a child. Especially the line … ‘Born and raised in South Detroit,’ because her pop’s was born there. UPGRADE that they played these back to back. I felt my boog was with me all week and especially in this Olympic moment.