THERE’S AN APERITIF WAITING FOR YOU ...
TIME TO WAKE UP FROM YOUR NAP
We arrived in Brittany on Friday, late afternoon. We took an early train to get there in time for… what else?... an aperitif!
We – Simon, moi, Margot, Gabriel, Sasha (boodle), Henri (bébé boodle) – were in for a treat! Jean Luc and Roxanne, our hosts for this long holiday weekend, had it all planned out … down to how many lbs of fresh block-butter, crème fraîche, bottles of cellar wine (JL is a collector… lucky lucky us! They were… “WOW”), and (countless) baguettes were needed to keep us enticed to wake up from our daily afternoon sieste, keep our bellies (very) full, permagrins on our faces, and arteries close to (but not all the way) clogged.
We ate like KINGS!
Grilled sole, raw oysters, crevettes for days, alcohol flamed lobsters with beaucoup scoops of crème fraîche, Vol-au-Vents (signature dish at Café des Minister – one of the favorites of all three men this weekend – and one that took all three men to prepare, assemble, and serve), horse sausage, beef tongue, clams that looked like scallops but tasted … dare I say… salt-candy?! (Simon and I learned that the mandatory way to eat these delicious fruit de mer was with a petit slice of baguette and a gargantuan lather of butter. Hummmm, I’ll take a dozen!), lamb skewers, homemade SQT mayonnaise, fresh strawberry parfaits, king crabs … I meannnnnn… the crazy part is, I COULD GO ON!
What could also go on? Our waistbands! We all came home with an added 5 kilos, and a mini lingering hangover. (Although, I’m not 100% convinced it isn’t actually alcohol withdrawal. After all, every meal was accompanied by aged bottles at lunch, aperitifs (negronis and spritz) before dinner, and magnum bottles during the nightly feats. (note that all of that is written in plural form.) Oh! And just as we do everyday when in Pontholie, around 5pm… there were beers).
Aside from the magnificent, and abundant, spread that we ate all the livelong weekend – we too had the luxury of walking from the house directly to the beach anytime we wanted. MY PARADISE. I kept teasing JL + R that “I know a great house sitter with time on her hands if (they) are looking for someone to keep their beach house ‘lived in’ while (they’re) gone on their summer trip.” (I think they picked up on it – but not 100% sure they knew that the sitter was the person sitting directly across from them and proposing the suggesting! Fingers crossed! Stay tuned…)
THE “BONCH”
The first day we all walked to the beach (for some odd reason, in my family, we call it the “bonch”), where we watched Sasha look for shells and promptly take her boots off to put her boodle feet in the ice bath – I mean freezing ocean with her papa. We encourage bébé Henri not to put the sand in his precious bébé mouth, we listen to JL tell us about the history of the town, and we posed for R as she snapped all of our photo (for what we learned later will turn into a book of the weekend that she is creating. So sweet.). We had a ball!
When everyone was walking up – I decided to take an extra mini stroll in the sand (my toes were happily at home). Simon joined me. And arm in arm we laughed and I shared this wild coincidence…
Last week, my friend Erica, chef extraordinaire in NYC, had told me about Rebekah Peppler. That I needed to look her up and meet her. She had just done a book signing for her new cookbook, Le Sud, at King, Erica’s restaurant, and her energy was simply “contagious.” Rebekah is now living in Paris, by way of NYC (like moi), she had worked at Condé (like moi), she has her own business in food (like moi – her’s by way of cookbooks and mine (was) BibOn.) etc. So, what did I do with all this information? What any desperate to connect with a fellow expat would. I blind emailed her (forgetting that she’s pretty famous) and told her “I think we need to be friends.” I gave her my summer agenda – as if she would be just as enthusiastic by this random stranger email – and told her “we can meet when she has returns from her book tour, and return from my USA jaunt.” No reply yet. Ha! But I think it will happen! Or she’ll think I’m a psycho.
So… Ironically, as I was walking to the train station to meet the gang to load up for this weekend away, this podcast was sent to me. An interview with her!
Hummmmm turns out. Rebekah and I are next to exactly the same! And having (she had) the exact first-year-in-Paris experience. Simon couldn’t get over it either. Even down to her saying that the “beach is my medicine!” Mine too! [Side bar: when I was sick as a little girl, my mama would wrap me up and drive me to the beach to sit and breathe it in. The waves and sea air cure EVERYTHING.]
When we returned, just in time I may add, drinks were being served and the grill was being lit. Sasha was helping gather pine cones for JL’s grill fire, R was reading, Gabriel was on Negroni duty, and Margot & I were gabbing as she fed Henri – it was low key, wonderful, and exactly how you would want to spend every night on vacation! (Which we did. And mastered.)
Each day got better and better and each day came with more and more FULL belly laughs for Simon and moi. We got so tickled all weekend. It was so fun!!!! And each night was a heavier and even better meal than the night before!
On our final night all together, I taught the group my family's FAVORITE card game. Spoons. We had a ball (I hope. I think. I did anyway.). Playing, squealing, fighting for the win. Simon said he had never seen me in this state. Focused, squealing, competitive. Eeeeek he better not come to a family reunion – because we’re all like this with this game! And ummmm we play with like 20 spoons … on the floor … with two decks of cards – everyone wants “in” on the commotion. (I may or may not - but definitely did win most rounds. I should have given the newbies a chance to take it. But… nah!)
When we were wrapping up the night – all high on laughter and the adrenaline from the game – Simon made a simple, turn, hysterical joke. You would have thought we were front and center at a Larry David stand up show – because everyone was knee slapping, and gasping for air. JL even laugh-gagged at one point which made us all laugh even harder. Another medicine. Laughter!
We had done the same thing the night before with another joke that had started on the beach with Simon and moi – as the night went on so did the joke and the belly aches from howling (and probably all that butter too). I love when Simon and I have moments like these. We brought Margot in on the joke at the end of the night while we were smoking mini cigs and cigars. We had her in stitches. It’s so much fun to be silly with friends – again JUST what the doctor ordered!! Giggles and SUN…
SUNSHINE AND RAIN
Each day we had a few hours of perfect, uninterrupted, sunlight! And each day we had a few hours of perfect, uninterrupted, rain!
When it was sunny … we did it all! Beach, swims, bike rides, runs, lounging, beach strolls, yard naps etc. Anything we could do to soak in those rays!
Simon and I dipped in the ocean both days we were there and on the final morning – we opted not to (thank god he was on board for this. I was afraid that if he went in, I would feel the urge and go. And on this particular morning – it was GLACIER). Instead, we woke up and went for a walk/run. Simon’s foot is still not healed all the way and I was exhausted from not sleeping (yes, this is still a thing that is lasting WAY too long. SOS! Someone help!).
We returned to the house where Margot and Gabriel’s family had left (they took the first of the two trains leaving that day – at 11am. We took the later one that night – at 9:30pm). JL + R + S + moi all sat outside for the meal that Simon perfected last week in Ponthoile… chicken marinated and slow cooked in lobster broth (alert – this is NOT the actual name! But I don’t know it). Each time we ate something that JL fixed, but that Simon had just made for us recently, Simon would turn to me and say (in earshot of JL no less): “Tell the truth. who’s is better?” TRAP! Ha. Sorry, S. I’m not walking into that one! I’m smarter than that. My answer: “They are both different and both my favorites!” (Just refer to me as… the diplomate.)
Yet, if I’m being quite honest. Simon truly is the best chef. (Ok, ok, so I’m biased! So be it!) But he is. He is meticulous with details and rarely makes the same thing twice without making it – somehow – even better than the last. VERY lucky to have a private chef at home.
After lunch, I did what comes natural and expected on vacation (this one anyway). I went down for a nap while Simon stayed up reading in the salon. I snoozed hard for an hour. It was bliss! When I woke up, I was craving to get out and walk. Alas, sigh! This was one of the hours that it had decided to rain. Instead of surrendering. I bundled in Simon’s rain coat and cued up the Larry David Smartless (hence the reference earlier. He really is my favorite comedian! But this episode had me crying laughing while I puddle hopped on the beach trail) and got to gab with my best friend, Jane.
On my return, I got lost a few times but by the time I walked in – the fire was roaring and what else could be waiting for me?… but an aperitif, of course.
With our drink, we finished up (gladly!!) the crevettes, oysters, rillette, horse sausage – all the leftovers … with another yummy fresh baguette and of course another block of butter. (We consumed a full three of these during the weekend with 6 adults. And I’m pretty positive they each weighed roughly two pounds … I am also pretty positive that all of those lbs are now visible on all of our rear-ends. Ha! True!). With this spread, Roxanne made a fresh and very hot zucchini soup. Since I had arrived wet and cold from my walk, she thought it would hit the spot. And it did!
After our last meal, we loaded onto the train at 9:30pm. Simon, looked pink with fever (shhhhhhh. He thought he was fooling me when he insisted that he “didn’t have any” – so to make him feel convincible – I pretended along), and I continued to knee slap at the Smartless the episode that I hadn’t finished from my walk.
BACK IN PARIS – HURRY, CUE THE RAIN
When we heard that we were pulling into Paris, I think Simon was the first one up. He gathered all of our things and escorted me to the stairs for the exit. When we de-trained (is this a word? Don’t think so .. but you get it), he practically ran to the taxi line. And fortunately! Because we only stood in it for 20 mins (so long!!! But the rest of the people in the way way back were there for an hour plus.)
Finally, at 1:45am, after umpteen u-turns in our cab due to all the Olympic Game barricades (hummmmm it doesn’t start for another two ish months!!!! What are we doing?!), several visible and loud lightning strikes (downpouring), we were unlocking our apartment. Couldn't be happier to be home sweet home.
I immediately doused the shower with eucalyptus oil and had him jump in. (Showers make everyone feel better.) I gave him a swig of meds, rubbed some mentholatum cream on his chest, let him look pitiful and sweet, and tucked him in like a burrito. He was out in no time!
He is on the mend now and I am the one starting to feel the aftermath of the decadent, WONDERFUL, weekend. Paris hasn’t let us down though this week. It welcomed us back with that massive storm when we arrived, and has continued to give us the same weather as it always has – rain, cold, clouds, a sneak of sun, and then more unexpected rain.
We are both in recovery mode and fast!… We have dinner parties to throw this weekend!
FAMILY TIES
On Tuesday night I got to see my uncle, Spivey, and his wife, Sim, and her two girls for dinner at La Belle Epoque. They are here for a graduation trip for the eldest daughter. Paris first, London next!
We had a ball catching up. He bragged about his daughters, Sarah and Emmy, which made my heart sing. These girls were my sisters growing up… and still are! Sarah is expecting a little girl, Smith, in a month. Spivey couldn’t stop telling me about his plans to turn his home office into a nursery for her (swoon). He wants to keep her often! And Em? He told me that she is “the best art teacher there ever was.” She has started a student club that has taken the town by storm and he is SO PROUD of her. I’m sure their ears were ringing the entire time – ocean separation and all.
We all ordered different things so our table was colorful and delicious. Spivey and I split the foie gras in honor of my mother – who literally ate this at every meal on both of her jaunts over to see me this year. She is obsessed! And so were we.
Simon was too achey to join. Poor thing!
I saw Spivey and his family for another time at Montmartre before they were London bound. It was so nice to hear about their trip to Normandy and snuggle in over a crepe and cider before they were gone. Sad news thought… as I was walking over to meet them I got this text “We are on the subway and I was just picked pocketed.” Eeeeeek. This has officially marked the first time anyone I’m close with has had this happen to them here in Paris. So frightening and also a warning to all. Just zip it up, keep hands in pockets, and your eyes open. I feel for him! Silver lining though for him… he now doesn’t have to pay for anything — and they have ten more days. Ha!
DINNER PARTIES
Last night, I hosted my fast (new) friend, David, for this soup (that is actually quoted as the best of the New York Times (and it IS!)). We. Had. A. Ball! We talked about everything for the three hours he was here – moving from couch, to table, back to couch, pouring more bubbles from the chilled bottle of La Tour D’Argent champagne, and eating more lemon tart from their boulangerie that he brought. (Ironic sidebar: I had told Spivey that if they did anything in Paris it was to have a pastry from this La Tour D’Argent boulangerie. My first discovery when living on île Saint Louis – and as it turns out … the actual best in Paris. Grace, Sim’s youngest daughter, was the only one to take my advice. Lucky her, she took the best croissant she’ll ever eat!)
David told me all about his active studies to receive his French Naturalization. He has been here for 10 years and is the sweetest when he talks about his desire to stay in France. He simply LOVES this country and wants to be an actual citizen to prove it. He told me about his time out at his country house preparing for the examination (that he will PASS in July). He told me that he too is obsessed with Bridget Bardot on Netflix and that that was his “break” during studies — with a glass of wine and BB. We talked about both of our experiences living through the first year and what all has been on my mind lately — as my first year is on the downslope and decisions need to be made about the coming year. We laughed a lot and just gabbed. I felt at home with him! And – he referred to me as “sister” when he was making a point. (Like I do with “mama.”) So genuine and endearing. Loved it!
Tonight we will host 11 over for dinner. Simon is making his duck with the famous mixed herb salad, and I will be serving up these candied strawberries over vanilla ice cream with olive oil and pinch of sea salt. (BTW. They did not turn out as beautiful as this. Erica is right. Don’t do these with fresh strawberries (as I did) – those just need to be enjoyed raw. And don’t cut them down (as I did). They will shrink while being steamed and roasted. Live and learn. But whocares! If last weekend taught me anything. It’s… umpteen glasses of wine makes everything taste incredible!)
Saturday night we have another dinner party with (my other) Margot, from Belgium, and her husband, Stan. This one will be more intimate and full of belly laughs and mini cigs.
Another packed weekend with lots of decadent meals and wines… so Sunday? I’m making an arrangement now with Mother Nature… she’s to bring her infamous Parisian rain showers starting at 2pm (after we have made the shopping for the day) and downpour until late evening so that we can be horizontal and recovering from all the fun this weekend is sure to bring!
In the week to come, I am hoping for time with more friends before we’re back en route to Ponthoile for Simon’s Godson’s first communion. Because next, pour moi, the USA.
Until next time… xx ac