TRANSATLANTIC

FINAL SUMMER DAYS IN THE CITY OF LOVE

Everyone wants to know.. Did I go to the Louvre. What about the Eiffel Tower? Did I walk the Seine? Yes yes yes! I did ALL of that! And I also, saw a car wreck, a hit-and-run on a motorbike, a laughing fit amongst two friends, I saw dancing in the street… I saw happiness, sadness, LIFE… and I yes, miss it already!!

I’m back in the US of A as of Wednesday night at 11:32pm – after sitting beside an open-mouth-breather/sleeper. She was so so sweet and so so dead to this world when she was out (which was 90% of the time). You all, who know me well, know that I go to the loo about every hour. Since I didn’t want to wake sleeping beauty (she was beautiful!), I was performing an acrobatic routine to dismount each time I had to go. I had a two row radius cheering me on each time I attempted the impossible and mastered it! Pirouetting my way over her delicately and twirling in my seat to sit. Lets be honest! I did the spin for effect and for the silently “roar” of applause.

---

THIS TIME TWO WEEKS AGO…

Once we pulled into the city from Ponthoile, I was Musée du Louvre bound. I had a date with Miranda and Margaux. 

Before my girls had arrived, Miranda realized that her “bring a guest” pass (since she’s a VIP at the Louvre, as a docent) was only good for Saturdays and today was a Monday. We both found it completely odd considering Saturday is the 100% busiest day in the WORLD, wouldn’t you say?! Next to everyone is off on Saturdays, therefore, the one day we would think the pass would not be accessible to bring a guest - was the only one to bring a guest. I derail. 

There was a 2+hour wait just to buy a ticket so we attempted the impossible. (My motto is “always ask for forgiveness instead of permission”... we did and it worked. Thank GAWD!) and made our way past the ummmmm 100s of sunblock wearing, parasol holding, neck fan blaring TOURISTS. (Did I mention? Paris turned up the heat for Simon and my arrival back to city life. It was the hottest day I had experienced yet!) 

We were waved inside, where the AC was on high (that includes me too – hadn’t been to the Louvre in YEARS. Was thrilled!). We toured around to see The Winged Victory of Samothrace (made super famous by Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face.. actually, I’ve done the work for you! CLICK HERE for the best spent 8mins and 16secs of your day!) before we waved at Mona from afar! The line to see her was wrapped around the place. Always amazes me that she is so small and yet so famous – when what she stares at all the livelong day and what all the tourists have their back turned to is The Wedding Feast at Cana… the LARGEST most beautifully detailed painting with (funny enough) countless dogs.They are everywhere! Miranda pointed this out (one of her docent nuggets) and we lost track of counting all the furry four legged caricatures. 

Fun fact.. if you stood in front of every displayed piece of art at the Louvre for only 3 seconds each, it would take you a FULL 3.5months to see it all! And this doesn't include the pieces that they have in their vault!

---

SWEET TALK

This night was the first night I would stay in my new apartment in Les Marais and I couldn’t have been more excited. Once I reached home after seeing Simon for an afternoon café and gathering my things, I showered and then walked the streets. I took myself to my favorite boulangerie in this neighborhood. When there, I explained (in French) to the sweetest marchande, that I had visited this bakery for the first time 5 years ago and have come back each time I’ve been in paris since. (I may not have ever shared this before – but when I start to speak, I always give this disclaimer “Je suis étudiant. Merci beaucoup pour votre patience pendant que je pratique mon français” – “I am a student. Thank you so much for your patience as I practice my French.” It softens everyone. And, as I’ve mentioned before – makes people want to give me things because I am trying! It’s so sweet)

I asked for a demi baguette (half) and she smiled as she put my order in a bag – saying in English, so that I could understand her, “It’s your lucky day. I have one full baguette that happens to be the price of a demi.” She winked as she said it to me and handed over my (very clearly out of kindness half-priced (€0.60)) baguette. As I was walking out she yelled “bon courage! Keep practicing!”

The next day was a bit of an emotional one. It was all beginning to hit me. I would be leaving soon. A reality, that in truth, I never thought was going to actualize.. It had been so far out in the distance until this day. It was exactly one week from my final departure and it hit me …hard! 

Fortunately, I had arranged to have a bébé date with Margaux that afternoon while her mama went to “make sport.” Alas, when I arrived… I was a mess. I felt sad, and anxious, and confused, and needed to cry. Miranda saw my state and stayed in with me for a beautiful lunch, a sweet talk, and visit instead of swimming. We ate cold tomato soup from the market in Ponthoile (incroyable!), the (the gifted “demi”) baguette with cheese from Ponthoile and her very yummy egg salad that M made. 

Margaux played on the floor (or really just smiled and snoozed the whole time like a BOODLE!) while I boo hooed to Miranda. It was all beginning to hit me. I felt rushed. I felt nervous about the unpredictable future. I felt pressure to figure it all out. I was spiraling. This was one of my favorite days though. Even with all the tears and confusion – sitting on one of my best girlfriend's floor, beside her baby, while she spoke words of wisdom … made me feel grateful! Yesterday was not only my lucky day.. So was this one!

I took the very long route home that afternoon and happened to (definitely re-routed myself to make it possible) find myself close to Simon’s office. He popped down happily for a second visit with me that day. I will miss these! 

Then I was off to rest at my pied a terre … for my big journey the next day to Metz with Caroline!

---

POWER OF TOUCH and SMILES

As I have mentioned in my previous EN ROUTES, Caroline and I think very similarly. We like anything woo woo and will try it all. She has been going to Sonia, a Kinésiology doctor in Metz for a year now and swears by the practice. She told me all about this when she was staying with me for Fashion Week last month. I told her.. Book me!.. and I’ll come spend the day with you. 

She did and I did, and it was EVERYTHING. 

One, it’s incredible to see a friend who you love be so happy. Caroline lives in her hometown, Mertz, which is also the place where she attended college, where her home is now with Tommie – her boyfriend, and where she looks the most grounded I have ever seen her!! This happens with most people. Looking brighter when they are happier in their “place.” 

As we strolled we ran into her sister, brother in law, and niece (who do not live there!). Dare I say… petit monde?!!! They had come in for the day to make a visit to the town. Law of attraction!

Caroline let me practice my French with her and she corrected me as I messed up every word. Her little niece, Lily, gazed at me and her mother in awe. It was SO sweet. She doesn’t know another language yet – so when I left her I told Caroline what an impression that was for her. To watch her mama… a woman she admires with the utmost speak to me in another language that she didn’t understand… And me respond in choppy French – a language she did understand… that I was butchering! – She was mesmerized. Precious!

Later that afternoon, I was with Sonia for a full 90 mins and it was EVERYTHING! Sonia and I had a brief download of what I wanted to work on and what things I felt were stuck in me. She was unreal in telling me things that I already knew that were areas of challenge for me. She had me lay back on a doctor's table and raise my arm. As she asked me questions based on what we had discussed quickly, she would start tapping my arm and counting after I answered. [I have participated in this practice before – when my healer is considering what supplement to give me for X or if I’m struggling with a decision. Based on the strength of my arm when she taps / with the questions – the answer reveals itself. It’s so cool how your body KNOWS what’s best. And with your eyes closed it still gives the answer when asked quickly outright.]

Sonia would reach for book after book after book as the process went on – like encyclopedias. She would ask me questions, she would press my arm, she would count, she would have me recite statements and she would read to me what she learned. And I would have a breakthrough. I LOVE stuff like this. And I felt lighter on so many levels when I left.

When I got out, Caroline was waiting for me as a mother would, who is picking up their child from a playdate. She was giddy to learn what all I had experienced – so we made our way over to Fox Coffee Shop (where we spent the better part of the day in fact – we had coffee there in the AM when I arrived, a snack after my session so we could debrief, and then a water before I was to board my train again that evening).

After, we walked around her gorgeous neighborhood. Where we dogged runners as they were jogging by - All looking SO serious. To soften the mood, I would smile and sometimes make a comment as they passed. No response. I was baffled. Caroline laughed as she said “they aren’t used to someone like you, AC – no one smiles as much over here or speaks to strangers like you.” Made me proud. Because I want to spread L.O.V.E. and think we all need to be smiled at. I get confused, truly, when this happens.. Anywhere I am. When I smile and I don’t receive one back (although, in truth, that is rarely the case for moi. But the case sometimes nonetheless). 

I would challenge you all to do this this week and see if/when it proves true for you too – find someone, lock eyes and SMILE. They smile BACK (usually). I wonder why it doesn’t come natural or why often we shy away from that? We ALL live on planet earth. We all call this place home. It always confuses me when people don’t get that and they stay in their grump. Turn that frown UPSIDE DOWN!

---

MUSE PAST and PRESENT

Monday morning, Simon and I pull back into town. EN ROUTE to Paris from Ponthoile, we learned on the radio that Jane Birkin, my muse, had died. Kind of felt unreal. I have been trying to pull off her “look” since 2010. [Sidebar: she once came into the Melet Mercantile showroom I was working at in Montauk with one of our repeat customers, Bruce Weber. (Devastated I wasn’t there that day!!!!!!) Fiona, my dear friend, who was working… said it was EVERYTHING!] 

So by Thursday, I was making my way home from another sweet afternoon work visit rendezvous with Simon, when I spotted my real life Charleston muse… I couldn’t contain myself coming out of the market when I say her! Without hesitation, I blurted out …”FANNY? PATRICK?!” (For those of you reading who live in Charleston, or those of you reading who have visited me while I’ve lived in Charleston, will know of Fanny and Patrick. They are the owners of my watering hole, Bin 152, and my all time favorite restaurant, Chez Nous.) YES! My real life muse was on the same street at the same time as moi in Paris and ummmmm wearing the exact same thing! I have said this to Fanny for years “when I grow up I want to be you” and now I am – french (kind of), living in paris (kind of), dressing the same (100%).

I ran into them again the following day (ironically dressed again just like Fanny!)  and then AGAIN the night before we were all due to fly back to the US. It’s true. Paris is a small town.

---

WEEKEND BLISS

I wanted to prepare dinner for Simon on Friday night. I had wanted to make him a southern spread with biscuits and such – alas, the more I started thinking about what to make, the more I started to realize that I may need to be IN the south to get all the provisions. I settled for making him ravioli. He had mentioned he’d love homemade ravioli while we were in the country and had made THE BEST pasta (still having dreams about it). So, since we had brought back a cauliflower, fennel bulb, garlic, basil, butter, and creme fresh... and I wanted a reason to go talk to a merchant about more legumes… I thought I would concock a recipe that incorporated it all, along with lots of parmesan, pork, and fig. Simon brought champagne to toast the occasion and I dressed up for the bubbles. Heels, dress, and all! One of my favorite nights.

Saturday – the greatest day YET! We had decided to make a picnic … alas, mother nature had decided on other plans for us. With heavy clouds accumulating, we decided to stroll Les Marais instead and stick close to the neighborhood. We had coffee at Le-Saint Gervais, shopped for sunglasses at Jimmy Fairly, had beers and bulots at Le Mary Celeste, ran into his friends on the street (have I mentioned? Paris is SMALL), had three courses at Les enfants du marché (one of my favorite spots in Paris… it’s been highlighted before in an EN ROUTE), strolled and smoked skinnies EN ROUTE to Place des Vosges (gave me great pleasure when he told me, as we lounged in the grass, that this was his favorite square. Même! It has been my favorite – and actually, the first place I visit when I come over since 2017), Bambino for mezcal drinks on tap and back home to make a picnic indoors while watching Itinéraire d’un Enfant Gâté – where I promptly fell asleep. (I tried to fake that I was awake each time I felt him looking at me…didn’t succeed – I would wake up every now and then when I heard him laughing.. So I plan to cue up the comedy and cackle this week!)

Sunday – even greater day than Saturday!! Simon practically bought out the boulangerie – he brought us a taste of four delicious flaky pastries: croissant, pain au chocolat, chaussons aux pommes (my first time and favorite!), and another chocolate layered daydream! Today was really the rainy day - but that didn’t stop us Parisians. We layered up and jumped on his motorbike, where we rode over to the 11th. We strolled through the market – outdoors for veggies and indoors for fish and cheese. We made our way over to Le Square Trousseau restaurant for the lunch that I will forever dream of… we had it all! We started with grilled mussels and ended with what he told me his mother makes with perfection.. Ile Flottante. I have NEVER in my life tasted something as delicate and delicious. If he hadn’t been there – I would have asked for a straw … it was drinkable!

After we hopped on his bike, we went to Brut where I couldn’t help but think of all my old bosses from RRL, OOBE and We Took To the Woods… it’s exactly them. Next… we RODE and rode and rode. MY FAVORITE. He rode me all over Paris – mostly the 11th. I Was in heaven. The countdown had officially started since it was the start to a new week and I was like a sponge – absorbing every second. We ended up at Le Progrès Marais where we drank beers (demis pour moi and pints pour Simon) and smoked skinnies and just had the best time – sitting outside people watching. [By the way.. TWO people who were dining at the same restaurant as us earlier that day, in the 11th, walked by us in the 3rd. Have I mentioned? Paris is SMALL!] 

That night I doctored up the leftover ravioli from a few nights before and made us a homemade apple tart (was supposed to be a pie.. But since the crust wasn’t rolling out, in the fridge too long, I improvised.. Cut into layers and arranged it over the baked apples. It became more like a crumble) with a dollop of crème fraîche. We enjoyed our dessert to the tune of 007: The World is Not Enough. 

---

BON VOYAGE

Before I left Paris… I did final walk-abouts by day (saying farewell (for now) to all of my favorite spots like Île Saint-Louis, Place des Vosges, Jardin des Tuileries etc), and dinning with Simon by night at two of the most incredible restaurants with the most incredible views of Paris. 

Monday, I met Simon at his office. It had started to rain by the time I reached him, so he draped his raincoat around me before we rode to Costes for a drink (it reminded me so much of The Campbell Bar in NYC) and we had a debate about the ingredients for Irish Coffee. He got the barista involved and… eeeek, I lost. Why did I think there was Baileys in an Irish Coffee?!! He said I have a great poker face – but the truth is (embarrassingly enough) I really did believe I was right... That Baileys was in an Irish Coffee. No poker face.. Just wrong!

We met his best friend, Benjamin, and Benjamin’s girlfriend, Paul, for dinner at Gigi. The view was incredible and more than that …the company! We had a ball. With the backdrop of the sparkling Eiffel Tower, we dined and laughed and told stories and got to know one another. Such a special night!

The next day was a rainy one – which oddly enough, I was thankful for. I needed to pack, and not be distracted by Paris’s beauty luring me out on the streets to enjoy. Instead, I welcomed the downpours – but not before I went on an early morning walk to the canal, drank a coffee while I was EN ROUTE to my final steam and sauna at SoHo, walked through Jardin des Tuileries where I saw the ferris wheel spinning (took it as a sign to get on it. I had done that once before – my first time in Paris with my father in 2006. It was a similar feeling day as the first time I rode it.. Cool, dark, dreary. Felt it was a necessary ending to my Parisian Summer.), so I paid my 15 euro cash and took occupancy in cabin 3 for the most spectacular Paris view and all her beauty.

That night I met Simon back at his office where he had a “special surprise” planned for us. I was practically bouncing around all day with anticipation. We went back where it all started (when we first met) to have a drink at Bar Du Moulin (pint for him, demi for moi and a Pastis for us both. My first ever. And possibly my last.. Although I really did quite like it! It’s an acquired taste – with the liquorish notes and all). I can’t remember now what we got tickled about… but practically one sip in and we were cackling. It’s one of my favorite parts about being with Simon – laughing nonstop. 

From there, we took to the streets. Hand in hand he led me through Place des Victoires over to Halle aux Grains, the new Café-Restaurant from the Bras Family, in the heart of the Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection. We stopped as he gave some explanation and then he said – we’re dining here.. Pointing to the museum. Incroyable! He had arranged for us to have a table at the restaurant overlooking the museum and the Église Saint-Eustache. The view was remarkable and the food spectacular. We started with champagne as they served us rye wafers with a celery spread, a small bite with mouse and seeds, tomato broth to cleanse the pallet and then the greatest fish for moi and goat for Simon – our main course was served with a melted cheese (I wish I could remember the name right now. So sorry!) and the yummiest pain we have ever tasted (special recipe for the restaurant. Simon was inquisitive about where it was made (so watch out bakers! He’ll be there soon!)! We ended with dessert, Simon had a strawberry layered pastry (devine!) and I had rice pudding (double devine!!!!) 

We ended our night back at Gallopin – where it had all begun for us on our “20 year old night” a month or so before. Listening to music, watching the scene, drinking champagne and espresso martinis, and being young… living in Paris!

The next morning we made our way over to Le Progrès Marais again to eat croissants and drink coffee (I ate mine as slow as possible – trying to lengthen our time together) but finally he had to get off to work and I had to arrange my uber.

Before I left I got to see Steph, the owner of Jesse’s apartment, one last time… and meet his wife (who was a dream!). They have been so wonderful to me and are trying to introduce me to a few people in their building who rent their apartments (since they have sold theirs).. For when I want to return. Because, if you haven’t read through the lines … Paris is calling my name louder and louder.

Until then, I will report to work in an hour and can’t WAIT to see my CLS gang (and shhhhhh, surprise them with a few of the cookies that I smuggled in my carryon from Carette). 

---

Thank you for keeping up with my journey. I have so many one-off topics I thought about while over there, and never wrote. So I may keep sending these off as they come to mind. And, of course, I hope to continue EN ROUTE as my travels in the coming year continue. Thank you Jess for encouraging me to start this before I left. It’s been one of my highlights of my time away.

Xxo bisou