BUT, WHERE’S THE COFFEE?
“Merci pour le croissant, mais puis je aussi avoir du café?” (Thank you for the croissant – but can I get a coffee too?) This was the sentiment I understood after a homeless man locked eyes with me yesterday morning, tugged at my heartstrings, and led me to the boulangerie across the street. I bought him the freshest, butteriest, warmest croissant they had in the case and then crossed the street to hand it over. But THAT is what he said back to me when I held the sac out for him to take. He almost didn’t even take the pastry because he was confused about where the coffee was.
I, at first, took offense. Then, I thought about it. What was I thinking? I mean.. I wouldn’t eat this heavenly butter cloud without a hot cup of Joe. Why should he? So, I crossed the street once more. He won and had a delightful (and complete) breakfast.
CYCLES AND CELINE
Saturday, I was invited to watch the Men’s Cycling Road Race in the city with my new friends. Cara and her husband Keil were hosting a wine, bread, and butter soirée at their apartment in the 11th. Yep.. butter… Cara loves butter. She loves it so much she’s decided to throw herself a butter birthday party in September. THE best idea I have ever heard! (One of my NYC besties, Marrissa, threw herself a mustard party one year for the same reason. We had a ball tasting, spreading, dipping… So I’m here for this idea!)
We had the greatest day – lounging in their gorgeous and most spacious apartment I have been in yet in Paris. It went on for days! And the kitchen!! Ah! It’s what dreams are made of. Cara and her husband just moved from Tokyo, where they had been for several years and before that, London. So, they have collected the coolest books and art – displayed all over their Heaven in the 11th. She even told us while she was giving us the beautiful grand tour that the owners she’s renting from had it shot for Architectural Digest just after they had finished renovations and before they moved away. Trés chic!
At 3pm we all rushed out to cheer on the cyclist. It felt like the city was on MDMA – smiley, dancy, and the sporadic belts of gleeful Celine Dion songs by ALL. Exhilarating!
The speed that the cyclist raced by us was lightning. And just like that.. I caught the Olympic bug at that moment. I NEEDED MORE! asap!
WE’LL HAVE ANOTHER… BOTTLE.
Sunday, I invited Justine to Le Café de L'Odéon (one of my favorite summer terraces.) Alas.. Welcome to France. Their Google hours said open, but when we showed up… would you guess it? They were closed!
Lucky for us. We were close to Avant Comptoir de la Terre a place we both love. So, we meandered there for a glass of wine (... that turned into two bottles and then an additional glass), and to eat their foie gras, melon with prosciutto, and tarama with toast. It was the BEST night! She is becoming such a treasured friend of mine. (In fact, I too invited her to join me later in the week when I scored tickets to an Olympic game! More on that later…)
So, given all the wine the night before and the possible nutella that followed – I don’t remember details… OK!? – Monday, I was moving slowly. I went for a LONG run to get my energy up and yet after, still, all I wanted to do was curl up and watch the Olympic highlights. Did I mention? I had caught the multicolored ring bug! So I did.
That evening I had been invited to an inaugural “Boss Ladies” dinner that I had inspired (thank you very much!). The girl who was hosting this dinner loved my idea of the women’s business club I started in Charleston.. some 7 years ago… so wanted to create the same here in Paris. I had named mine “Relish” – a play on relish in great ideas and the food relish, as our initial gatherings we all would bring something to eat. (This Relish text chain by the way is still going strong today – they in fact texted as I was drafting this EN ROUTE. Gives me such joy! Especially because many of us live outside of the Holy City now.) So… Instead of attending “Boss Ladies,” I was craving a night to myself. So, I decided to take it.
I was feeling cozy and calm… until I got this UPGRADE text that sent my energy through the roof. “AC, wanna be my guest at Chase Lounge tomorrow?” Eeeeep! That got me buzzing! My friend Leah, (that’s right, we’re officially friends now. She’s the sweet one who invited me to what I thought was going to be a silent film a few weeks ago), asked me to join her at what sounded like Heaven on the Seine. (It was!)
Actually, let me rewind to Saturday again. When Leah, Ariel, Cara, Kiel, Ali, and I were all cozy after we watched the cyclist wiz by us and had had our fill of Celine Dion street-style karaoke, Leah started raving about this Chase Sapphire Preferred Lounge - Olympic experience on the Seine. And the ice cream! The ice cream, she said, was everything! Watching her light up about her experience.. I wanted in.
We all had a good laugh because, even tough I do have a Chase Card.. (yet, I have NO IDEA where it would be given all my things are all over this beautiful city at the moment while I apartment hunt), and I was convinced it was in my possession. I went to prove it… and whipped out the wrong card all together! Capital One. Ha! It was wrong. So, I needed an invite.. and she, ANGEL, gave me one. GREENLIGHT.
My response back to her was simple… “Hummmm, YES!!!”
WE AREN’T DRUNK. WE’RE ON A BOAT!
Tuesday had arrived, and so had I to the Lounge with Aly Raisman (the third-most decorated American gymnast, and the tiniest little thing you ever did see). She was the Lounge’s guest of honor that day. (Ok… ok.. I didn’t arrive with her. But I did arrive beside her. Does that count? I mean, we walked up at the exact same time by god!)
Those of us pictured are.. bébé Stevie, her mama (and my, dare I say… newest fast friend) Cara, Ariel, (my other newest friend who you all met a few weeks ago at the pizzeria with Leah and me. She is hilarious. In fact, she confessed that day on the boat that she thinks she’s actually “Emily in Paris.” She, and I quote, said “it’s an exact parallel of my life… down the flirts with the chefs!” ha), Emily (an actual live Emily (who lives) in Paris - and who doesn’t keep up with the show, but offered to help me sort out my visa / lawyer decisions, so an ANGEL), Leah (the most enthusiastic Team USA cheerleader, our Chase Lounge recruiter, and whose energy is contagious!), Nicole (another American living in Paris who I met that day), and finally, our American in green who doesn’t live here in Paris, (and whose name isn’t coming to me, forgive me!, but who is just as enthusiastic as Leah about all the games! She and her husband came from the midwest with friends and were going to games each day in between their lounging on this chic boat rented by Chase – where they met Leah.) Full circle.
During the day, we all kept having to remind each other that we weren’t drunk, we were on a boat. Because wow, the subtle moves on the Seine, while you’ve got a heavy grip on your sloshing glass of ‘one drink token’ wine can really make you think you’re seeing double. I mean for a second I considered putting down my triple scoop ‘Evan Special’ (official Lounge Ice Cream Scooper) ice cream cone to balance myself. But, who am I kidding? I became a pro in college at double fisting for this moment RIGHT NOW… I’m holding on to it and swaying as I sip my wine and lick my cone until… well…until I get another. Ok!?
UPGRADES AND ANGELS
Tuesday had started with an UPGRADE just knowing I was getting to go see friends. And then, after I locked myself in for an early morning meditation - I checked my WhatsApp to find another UPGRADE text message from a best US friend. It went something like this.. “hiring freeze at work is over. Your name came up. Are you interested?” I am not sharing anything else. But let me just say, I felt like something unlocked in me this day – because you just wait for what else happened…
(Oh, and if you’re wondering. YES. I responded to her with an enthusiastic … “YES!” A phone date was set for the following day for me to learn about it all.)
Let me set the stage. Before I had arrived to lounge all the livelong day, (and aside from my incredible UPGRADE text), I had also been dealing with an unfortunate situation that was happening with the apartment I was due to rent starting August 12th. I won’t get into the details, alas… I did decide not to take it (miscommunication and last minute fees etc that had me feel eeky because it wasn’t clear. Ok! So, I spilled the beans. I didn’t trust it.) As I shared what was going on with my friend Ariel, I felt stressed for only approximately 15 seconds. Because out of nowhere… she asked what dates I needed a place. I told her the three nights and just like that… GREENLIGHT. Without any hesitation. She said, “Oh my god AC! I am leaving those exact nights. You’ll stay in my place!” I kid you not. So I am. She’s an ANGEL.
THEN… I biked home (I could have Road Raced the Olympians I felt so energized from all the support and encouragement Ariel had given me) to put that stressful situation to bed (pun) with the other rental. As I sent the “I’ve decided not to take it” email, I got another UPGRADE text. My last summer classmate, Blake, who lives in California so shouldn’t be here, and who I literally thought of THAT morning randomly, texted me out-of-the-blue. “I’m in town for the Olympics and I have two tickets for the semi final Men's Hockey tonight. Would you want them?” I didn’t even have to look up who was playing before I said “YES” instantly. I then immediately venmo-ed her the $$$ while I was speed-dialing Justine.
On the third ring she picked up to my squealing invitation. She was in too! Within an hour we were Stade Yves-du-Manoir bound for the India vs. Germany Field Hockey game. That’s right! I was going to the Olympics baby!
When we arrived, the sun was out and making her final bright beams of the day. I (of course, don’t know where my hats would be in all the apartment hopping, so) didn’t come prepared to be in the brightness. Alas, for some reason I just knew I wouldn’t need it. I felt we were going to be in the shade. And boy were we! In the shade and on the (excuse me, turning up the volume for this) FRONT ROW. We were practically in the goal box with the goalie.
It felt like a concert on steroids. Everyone was yelling! And even though we couldn’t figure out the rules to save our lives, we could figure out when to yell. We followed the cues from all our seatmates. When they yelled, we yelled, when they clapped we clapped, when they got upset, we got upset. It was intoxicating. We were pulling for India OBVIOUSLY (I mean, we were sitting in the MIDDLE of ALL India fans). But, honestly? I was pulling for whoever was being yelled for at any given moment. I just wanted to clap and scream and jump up and participate. So I did!
That night, we forwent the Île Saint Louis Soirée that I was invited to (via the mass WhatsApp text chain that I’m still participating in) because we were beat. While we were high on the collective stadium energy we thought we could do a drive-by at the party so that I could introduce the group to the real ÎSL resident, Justine. Mais, the second we got on the train we opted out. The Olympics! They get you high! And then you crash.
It was a big UPGRADE kind of day. Time for bed.
After my adrenaline came to a halt, I finally fell hard asleep. Although, Wednesday was JUST as exciting!
MORE GREENLIGHTS AND ANGEL MOMENTS
Short night, but when the sun was up, I practically popped out of bed to check my email for any news about my Heaven in the 6th. The name I’ve given my dream apartment that I was hoping to view this week.
I had! And what??!! Was I reading that correctly? I could go view it at noon TODAY!!?
ANGEL on deck: Cyrine.
After sending three emails that morning asking Cyrine (owner) for the exact address of my Heaven in the 6th – and then having to practice patience and nonattachment as I was starting to sweat through my new suit (that I wore for this special occasion) waiting for her response. She finally emailed. As luck would have it. I was standing/waiting on her block, around the corner. Ha! I must have felt I had arrived.
When I walked up, before I could even take my hand out of my pocket to ring the buzzer, three blond bombshells walk out of the Parisian monster-door with a petite little brunette who answered to the name of Cyrine. Oh no! It occurred to me then. We were ALL there to see it.
They said good bye and I walked in.
Another before I could moment came next. Before I could turn the knob on the apartment door, Cyrine blurted out “They blond girl is taking it.” Gutted. I immediately put on my American hat and blurted back (in the kindest way. I mean I’m not trying to spoil my chances here.. just trying to negotiate), “Have they paid? What’s your bank account? I can transfer money now.” She laughed and I think fell in love with me in that moment. She liked my determination and savviness. She too had lived in America, NYC to be more specific. So she got it. She understood my grit at that moment. The grit you learn to carry with you when you’ve lived oop I mean hustled in a city like NYC. We don’t like hearing “no.” So we don’t. We just turn it into a “yes.” Something I was steadily trying to do with her.
Alas, Cyrine, the ANGEL, let me know that the girl who wanted to take it was a student who needs to be close to Sorbonne Université and, unfortunately, is handicapped. That she needs the elevator for her wheelchair at times. I 100% understood and told Cyrine how much I appreciated her direct honesty with me and admired her for keeping her word to the blond before me, since she had seen it first. (Just to be clear though, in NYC my tactic would have worked. To pay on the spot. They would have eaten that up and given it to me right away.) I respected her decision.
Cyrine did however make the mistake of telling me, “until I have the money though - it’s not rented.” I was like… “ummm. Cyrine?!! I can’t read between the lines here. Be clear! ARE you telling me to pay you? Because don’t tempt me with a good French Bank app. I mean, I WILL (google translate everything and then) figure it out and get you paid today!” She said “No. But, by Friday, if I don’t have the money - it's yours.” YELLOW LIGHT… that’s about to turn GREEN… I can feel it.
I left her not five minutes before she called me. “Are you still close by? I have two other apartments I want to show you.” (Eeeeep! What. Was. Happening?! IS THIS A MOVIE?! I have never heard of being offered to see an apartment that’s off market!) I went back.. And by the time I reached the top floor (again) she had two apartments wide open. The ones directly beside hers. Her neighbor was also renovating his two apartments at the same time. I toured both. Took a ton of pictures, discussed closets and where things would go with her so that I could visualize my things there, and then, we closed the doors. I made eye contact with Cyrine and said straight up “I still want yours!” with a wink. She liked that too, I think.
Before I jumped on my scheduled call that afternoon with my friend’s company, I sent Cyrine a thank you message with this idea that I came to me on my walk to Chez Miranda sandwiched in the middle:
…I did however have an idea on my walk back from our rendezvous. Since the other sweet girl needs a place close to her school with an elevator… and since she’s a student (possibly lower budget) and needing a place by Sept (the timeframe of the other two apartments). And since I am able to pay today - and have secure funds coming in monthly and need a home by Aug 19th (the actual day your apartment is available). Do you suppose she would be interested in the other ones and I could take yours? Just a thought. Let me know what you think.
I completely support and honor your word of giving it to her first. I am just trying to help sort out the situation (as I put on my “director of operations and logistics” hat ;))....
Within seconds I heard a ping. She responded! “Great idea!” she said. Eeep she liked it! And then 10 minutes after that, another ping. She texted “The girl is coming to view the other two apartments in 30 mins.” Double eeeep!
Case in point. No one should ever doubt a dedicated and strategic (and desperate) ACB.
So… stand by. And in unison. If everyone will please close your eyes and picture me happy in a sunlite studio apartment in the 6th for a few seconds. I need ALL the good vibes! Please and thank you! I will learn in a few hours. (And honestly I woke up this morning feeling very unattached. Hopeful and excited, yes. Yet, unattached. If I get it, great! If I don’t – it just means that a better one is coming for me!) So stay tuned.
And for my final ANGEL moment this week.. he came in the shape of a driveby cop. Let me set the table for you. Last night, I was biking away from H&M HOME (where, it’s a must that I CRANK UP THE VOLUME again to announce the PARTNERSHIP that kicked off yesterday (and broke the site – it sold out so fast!) with my friend’s brand, Coqui Coqui! I could not be MORE PROUD), when I found myself behind a biker with, wait for it… noise canceling headphones (on a BIKE! DANGEROUS!!).
First, I wanted to hug him and say “honey… NO!” But instead, I rang James Chocolatine’s cute bell to signal him that I was passing on his left. He didn’t budge. Because he couldn’t hear me. Instead… You know who did budge?! The police!
Officer ANGEL face swooped in, rang his bell (actually that scary sporadic sounding siren on his motorcycle) and fussed at the guy for not hearing me due to his headset. He demanded that he remove the headphones. OH. MY. GAWD. First of all – I wasn’t angry in the least with my fellow biker, just scared for him, and (yet) two, I LOVED the protection from this cop for me, so I pretended to be a little angry. I didn’t want that Officer ANGEL face think his duty went unappreciated. I could tell that he felt good about his deed, as he winked at me and made some “can you believe what he did?” hand gesture as he sped off.
After he was out of sight – I profusely apologized to the French biker who took a very French response… by not looking me in the eye.. ONCE. He too sped off with his electric pedals. Probably so that he could tuck back on his headset and listen without an annoying careful American worrying for him pedaling behind him.
“I HAVE FACE PAINT. DON’T YOU WORRY!”
On Saturday, I will let Leah work her USA color face paint magic on me .. As we will be EN ROUTE to watch America take home the GOLD in the Women’s Soccer Finals against Brazil. I. Can. Not. Wait.
Until then, please, everyone, also send love to my sweet people in the south who have been dealing with the aftermath of Tropical Storm Debby. I love you all!
xxo
What?? You’re going to the women’s football final tomo?? Ahhhh…wish I was with you! Have the best time! It’s gonna be tough (Marta from Brazil has fresh legs as she didn’t play due to cards) but the American girls can do it- we got the trident up front and MVP Naomi!! Just gotta get the middle together. 🤞🏻Have the best time!!!❤️🤍💙